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Alaska Vacation - 2006

Alaska Vacation - 2006

Since we started RVing, one of our dreams has been to travel to Alaska while we were young enough to really enjoy it. We were concerned that Susan's osteoarthritis might progress beyond that point if we waited until retirement. John's employer, KASTLE SYSTEMS located in Arlington VA, came through and allowed us to realize our dream without sacrifice.

2006-06-16 Day 1

John left work early on Friday so we decided to leave a day early. Excitement and jubilance doesn't even come close to describing our emotions. This changed quickly as John scraped against the electric hookup as we pulled out of our parking place at Cherry Hill Park in College Park, MD. The minor damage to a couple of storage compartment doors was soon forgotten and we made it to Kirkersville, OH, just outside of Columbus. $200 dollars of diesel, a couple calzones from Flying J's Pepperoni's café and we are off to bed.

2006-06-17 Day 2

We were eager to get an early start but when we went to check are email, we found that our computer had crashed and would not start up, even in safe mode! John reinstalled windows with the repair option, which took over 5 hours, with all the other minor tweaking. All that was left was to get XP service pack 2. That's a few more hours so we decided it could wait until evening.

We still managed to make it across the mighty Mississippi River to a Flying J in Davenport, IA. The drive was less scenic than the first leg of our journey but functional.

The girls seem to be acclimating to their new life on the road. They come out as soon as we stop and like watching all the trucks at the Flying J's.

2006-06-18 Day 3

Today we drove, and we drove, and we drove, then we drove some more for a total of 922 miles; from Davenport, IA to Gillette, WY. We had made this drive in 2001, although not in one day, and we had forgotten the emotions that stirred within us as we gazed over the landscape of our beautiful country, the exhilaration we felt as a hawk dove for its morning snack, the awe as an eagle soared above. The abundance of wildlife made us smile like we were children.

Why would we drive 992 miles? We have learned that the Flying J's out west are not as RV friendly as those on the east. Very few have RV Islands and they all have fewer than 100 parking spaces for trucks. If there were RV spots they were for small coaches. So.. we went in search of a Wal-Mart. When we finally found one in Rapid City, SD, it did not allow overnight parking for RV's! So we drove some more. Things we discovered in South Dakota: those people love lawn mower racing, they offer to "Toe" your car or truck, and they have a really big drug store called Wall Drugs in Wall, SD.

Here is the big T-Rex that hangs out in their back yard - NO - we are not kidding.

T-Rex
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2006 -06-19 Day 4

Today we did NOT drive 922 miles. After a night of only 3 hours sleep, Susan was not ready for another long day. We only went 223 miles in search of a Flying J in Billings, MT which again was a disappointment. We continued to Bozeman, MT and are now sitting in the Sunrise Campground. The drive here was interesting. Weather out here is unpredictable at best! We watched as dark clouds, horseshoe lightening, and hail headed our way. Driving through the mountains in blinding rain, hail, and strong wind gusts (which loosened the slide out awning) was a challenge, which John handled with ease. Tonight Susan did laundry, John found a Gold's Gym, did a workout, and the kitties got to play and watch birds instead of 18-wheelers.

2006-06-20 (Tue) Day 5

In John's life, he has driven cross country on I-10, 1-40, I-70 and the I-80/I-90 combination; the I-80/I-90 combination is the best. It has the least amount of traffic and exquisite scenery. He says that every time the realization of the kind of people our forefathers must have been to cross this country consumes his minds. You cannot help but to admire the pioneers that explored it.

As we left Bozeman we were surrounded by mountains, the southern ones, with the north face exposed, were covered with snow while the northern ones were not. When we entered Whitehall, MT we slowed down to watch a real life cattle drive, complete with cowboys, right down the middle of the road! Susan noted that Cows in the road are much better than Bison. (We found ourselves in the middle of a Bison stampede at Yellowstone NP during our honeymoon drive)

Just outside of Bearmouth, MT we stopped at a rest area so John could stretch his legs (he was a bit tight from his morning workout) and walked down to the river that runs alongside the highway. These Montana people sure know how to make a rest area pretty! As we were leaving the rest area John spotted a Bald Eagle (yes - a real one) right by the river. He was coming in for a landing with a big Trout in his talons. Words cannot describe the beauty of this sight.

As we were crossing the Bitterroot Mountain range (4,800 ft) we noticed a bike path. John started to salivate thinking about the work out that must be.

Around 3:00 we crossed into Washington and stopped at another Flying J. Yes, another let down. The price for diesel was $3.19 and there were only about 80 parking spaces so we continued on to find a resting place for the night. Driving along I-90 we spotted a fox and lots of farm land. We got our first glimpse of Mt. Rainier (14,310) in the distance. Just a little taste of what's to come when we get into the Canadian Rockies. We spent the night at E & J Campground so we could have a Wi-Fi connection. There was a little roadside stand that sold local cherries so of course Susan had to have some. They were very good!

Cattle Drive in the middle of the road
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John Chillin' by a Stream
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A Nice Rest Stop
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2006 -06-21 (Wed) Day 6

We will be entering Canada today and are not sure when internet connections will be available so our postings might be sporadic but they will appear so stay tuned.

Crossing the border into Canada was uneventful. Since we are members of Thousand Trail, we decided to take a day off from driving and spend the day at their Cultus Lake facility in Lindell Beach, British Columbia. Upon arriving at this immaculate campground nestled in a mountain range by the lake with a par three golf course at the entrance, it seems inevitable that we will spend another day here before we continue our travels.

Thousand Trails - Our Backyard
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2006 -06-22 (Thu) Day 7 (Lindell Beach, BC)

John wanted to test drive his new bike so we decided on a bike ride this morning. John rode from the campground down to the path that runs along side of the Vedder River. Susan, of course, drove the car down there with here bike on top. The 8 mile drive from the camp ground to the river is a mountain road - need I say more! The path by the river was amazing - as we rode along the 14 mile gravel path we were surrounded by wildflowers and the sound of the running river. The water was so clear that you could see the rock bottom from the path. What we noticed most was the sound - quiet - expect for the river. The sound is what we notice most up here - or should I say the lack of sound. We can sit outside and the only thing we hear is the wind through the trees. WOW.

After the bike ride John had not had enough exercise so he rode back up the mountain rode then took off up a 3/12 mile mountain trial - straight up! Susan is glad she stayed home! He did get some great pictures.

Tomorrow it is off to McLeese Lake Resort, British Columbia - 320 miles closer to Alaska :)

Vedder River Bike Ride - Susan
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Vedder River Trail
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Vedder River
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Columbia Valley
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Tea Trail view of Cultus Lake
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Tea Pot Hill Vista
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2006-06-23 (Fri) Day 8 (McLeese Lake, BC)

We pulled out of Lindell Beach, BC at 6:00 and heading for McLeese Lake, BC. Driving through more breathtaking mountains, and fast moving rivers, we are again reminded just how big and beautiful this earth is.

We experienced our first (and hopefully last) rock slide today. Driving along the highway we noticed that cars were stopped and there was a lot of dust coming from the side of the mountain. It looked like there was a rock slide that the highway folks decided to help along. We stopped for about 1/2 hour and talked with a nice guy from British Columbia who was passing the time by hitting rocks with his hockey stick - only in Canada - he was heading to his cabin for a week of fishing. He told us to make sure we visit Morris Lake, YT.

We had just passed the town of Hells Gate when we came upon the Elvis Rocks Canyon Cafe complete with Elvis statues out front, neon guitars and Christmas lights! What a hoot. I guess you have to have something to get you through the long cold winters up here.

The roadside signs warning of wildlife changed from Deer to Elk to Bighorn Sheep to logging trucks. We did not see any Bighorn Sheep but we did see our first Loons.

We arrived at McLeese Lake Resort about 1:00. We must say that their version of a big rig and ours is a little different. Thank goodness John can parallel park this coach! Our space is small compared with Cherry Hill but the views our front window are incredible.

We decided to only stay here one night and head for K'san Village tomorrow. We want to cruise around town and Susan wants to do some shopping (big surprise there)

It was about 10:30 pm and it's just starting to get dark.

McLeese Lake Campground
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2006-06-24 (Sat) Day 9 (Hazelton, BC)

Good morning from McLeese Lake. It is now 3:30 am and I decided look out my front window at the lake and it is daylight. The days are definitely long up here.

Today we head to K'san Village to meet up with out tour. Our first stop was in the town of Quesnel to visit Wal Mart! Time to grab some more movies since satellite service is no longer a possibility. We are way too far north.

Today we saw our first Moose sign. No Moose but lots of Moose signs. This leg of the trip takes us through areas where there are no mountains - - just lots of farm land. We are seeing more and more saw mills. It seems like there is one in every town! Susan does not like to see all the trees lined up ready to be turned into plywood.

As we approached the town of Engen we see plumes of smoke and wonder what the heck it is then realize that it is a controlled burn of the tree parts left over after the clear cutting. Steam is starting to come out of Susan's ears as what the logging companies are doing to the forests up here.

More Moose signs - no Moose. As we continue north the snow capped mountains return and we see another person with the Alaska RV Travel bumper sticker! We are beginning to get excited about the start of our tour. We pull over in the town of Smithers because the temp gauge has begun to spike for no reason. We know we topped the radiator off before we left but we pull over to check it our anyway. Good thing we did - as we got back in the coach we looked up and WOW - - we saw our first glacier from the road in the middle of town.

We continue on and the mountains get higher and every river is more beautiful than the last. Rounding a corner in Moricetown we both gasped! We were looking at the Moricetown Canyon. Of course we pulled over and John headed off down the bank to get a close up of the raging river. Much to her surprise, so did Susan. Words are not enough to say how incredible this was so here are the pictures. We figured without pictures nobody would believe Susan actually went out on the rocks.

More Moose signs - no Moose.

When we rounded a corner coming into Hazelton, BC Susan just about had a heart attack. The Hagwilget Bridge loomed in front of us. The best way to describe it is that it had to have been built with an erector set, and it is one lane! The Hagwilget Canyon of the Bulkley Canyon is one of the most photographed places in Canada. We can see why but the bridge frightened Susan as we crossed in out motorhome. Susan spend much of the crossing with here eyes closed.

When we arrived at the 'Ksan Campground, we found many others from our tour were already there. After we got settled in, the tour leader, Spike, came over to welcome us and give us our yellow vests. The campground is nestled at the confluence of the Skeena and Buckley rivers and surrounded by mountains. As we sit at the computer the view out our window is of the swift moving Buckley River with the majestic snow capped mountains to our left. The tallest of the mountains remind us of the Eiger Mountain from the movie The Eiger Sanction.

John went right out for a bike ride while Susan went around meeting our fellow travelers. We were both tired and decided to turn in early. Sleeping is not easy since it is still daylight at midnight and the sun is back up at 4:00 am.

Smoke from fire - not Susan
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John goes to the falls
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Susan made it too!
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Hagwilget Canyon Buckley River view from bridge
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K'San Village Campground (front yard)
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K'San Village Campground (back yard)
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2006-06-25 (Sun) Day 10 (Hazelton, BC)

This morning we decided to go for a bike ride so John could share the beauty he saw yesterday with Susan. The roads here have good bike lanes and do not have heavy traffic but they do have HILLS. Lots of hills (Susan made the journey from the campground to the Hagwilget Canyon. These pictures say it all. Everywhere we turn there are mountains and rivers. Oh yeah - there are also beware of bear signs.

Back at the campground we meet Roger, the tail gunner, who will be checking our coach and car for the journey and installing a screen on the front of the echo to prevent rock strikes. He also put a screen under the coach to prevent rock strikes to the engine. Much to our dismay the temperature here is in the high 80's - where is the cool weather we (ok Susan) were hoping for?

This evening we had our first of three orientation meetings. Spike told us about the area then got into some of the things we will be doing on the tour. It was a good time to meet and greet the folks we will be spending the next 33 days with. Everyone seems nice and it looks like we will all have a good time.

Susan on the Hagwilget Canyon Bridge
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Susan almost relaxed on the bridge
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Bear Sign - Where are they?
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View of Skeena River on bike ride
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2006-06-26 (Mon) Day 11 (Hazelton, BC)

Today is a free day for us to roam around the town of Hazelton. We had a nice lunch at a local cafe, watched a couple movies, and just relaxed. As we get ready for our second orientation meeting clouds fill the sky and the wind picks up. It looks like we will be getting some rain. Unfortunately one of the folks on the tour did not put up their awning and it blew back over their coach. John took off from the meeting and managed to catch it before it separated completely form the coach.

Alaska Discovery tour started 2006-06-27 in Hazelton, BC

Alaskan Discovery RV Tours

Our Guides, Spike & Stef - smarter than they look
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Roger of the Frog clan (FBI - F**king Big Indian)
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2006-06-27 (Tue) Day 12 (Hazelton, BC)

We carpooled to Kispiox which is ten miles from our campground to see totem poles that had once lined the Kispiox River. Spike explained the poles, their history and the many of the stories behind them. The poles are from various clans and families of the First Nation natives and Spike had to get permission to reveal their tales. It was a nice cool day so John decided to ride his bike back to take in ubiquitous spender. We visited the 'Ksan Historical Village and museum, a replica Gitksan (means of the 'Ksan) Indian village. The exhibits were in the long houses where each of the clans, Frog, Wolf, Fireweed, and Eagle, lived and conducted clan business in the winters. Later that evening, we were invited to watch the dress rehearsal of 'Ksan Native Dancers at the Wolf House here at the 'Ksan Native Village. Anecdotes and legends were displayed on stage. John was one of the men chosen in the husband stealing dance and he got to display his native dancing skill and Susan had to inform him that he should stop now, the music was over.

2006-06-28 (Wed) Day 13 (Hyder, AK)

We rolled out of 'Ksan bright and early headed for Hyder, AK. On the way we stopped at a couple more First Nation villages to view some more totem poles. Once on the highway Spike pointed out that the bears, fresh from their winter slumber, like to munch on the daisies that grow wild right beside the roadway. He instructed us to keep our eyes open and moving to catch a glimpse of them. Susan was first to spot a bear in a small ravine to the right of the highway. She quickly radioed the information and mile marker to the rest of the group. There were two more sightings along the way and we got to see both of them. Total bear count for the day - 3. We also got a glimpse of the Alaska state bird, the Ptarmigan. It looks a lot like a cross between a Chicken and a Grouse. One of our stops was at Bear Glacier. What a sight(The bluest ice you have ever seen. There was a river between us and the glacier and John just had to hike down there and touch the water. Yes was cold! As we turned down the road to Hyder, we were awe struck at the beauty that unfolded before our eyes. Each turn gave us a new view of the mountains and the wonder that was ours to explore. Hyder has a bear viewing area called Fish Creek and before we even slid the rooms out we were in the car and on our way. Much to our dismay we did not see any bears. The spawning salmon have not returned yet so there is nothing for the bears to eat yet. (John wanted to ride his bike the 4 miles to the area but the manager of the park called bikers "meals on wheels". We all got a good laugh out of that one.)

2006-06-29 (Thu) Day 14 (Hyder, AK)

This morning we hit the road running. After a quick stop at Fish Creek to see if the fish had returned we were off to Salmon Glacier, the fifth largest glaciers in Canada. It is actually in Canada and not Alaska. A very long drive of 21 miles, at 10 - 20 miles per hour on a dirt and gravel road was well worth the trip. We can't even begin to explain what we saw. It is one of those feeling where you just stand there with your mouth wide open (watch out for the mosquitoes) and your eyes as big as silver dollars. When we got to the top there was this guy called The Bear Man who lives up there all summer and takes pictures of the glacier, the bears, and other "stuff". He is like the welcome committee. He sells his books and DVD's and loves to talk about the glacier. He told us about the old glacier road and how if you follow it you can get really close to the glacier. Close enough to climb down the rocks and actually walk on the glacier. That was all John needed to hear and we were in the car and on our way.

John was sweating as John does so he was taking a shower when there was a knock on the door. There were a couple of bald eagles flying around above our campground. Susan grabbed the binoculars; John wrapped a towel around his waist, and eagle watching we went. Well, there was a crowd but that did not stop John. After the watching these spectacular birds a while, encouragement came from the crowd to drop the towel. Susan warned them but it was too late; we watched the eagles with a full moon!

Later that evening, we went to the Sea Alaska Inn for a delicious breaded halibut with a garlic seasoning.

Note: It is 11:00PM and it is still light out. We are on our way to Deese Lake tomorrow and Spike says we will gain 45 more minutes of daylight! We may not sleep until we get home :(

Vista from Hyder
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John on the Glacier