Since we started RVing, one of our dreams has been to travel to Alaska while we were young enough to really enjoy it. We were concerned that Susan's osteoarthritis might progress beyond that point if we waited until retirement. John's employer, KASTLE SYSTEMS located in Arlington VA, came through and allowed us to realize our dream without sacrifice.

2006-06-16 Day 1

John left work early on Friday so we decided to leave a day early. Excitement and jubilance doesn't even come close to describing our emotions. This changed quickly as John scraped against the electric hookup as we pulled out of our parking place at Cherry Hill Park in College Park, MD. The minor damage to a couple of storage compartment doors was soon forgotten and we made it to Kirkersville, OH, just outside of Columbus. $200 dollars of diesel, a couple calzones from Flying J's Pepperoni's café and we are off to bed.

2006-06-17 Day 2

We were eager to get an early start but when we went to check are email, we found that our computer had crashed and would not start up, even in safe mode! John reinstalled windows with the repair option, which took over 5 hours, with all the other minor tweaking. All that was left was to get XP service pack 2. That's a few more hours so we decided it could wait until evening.

We still managed to make it across the mighty Mississippi River to a Flying J in Davenport, IA. The drive was less scenic than the first leg of our journey but functional.

The girls seem to be acclimating to their new life on the road. They come out as soon as we stop and like watching all the trucks at the Flying J's.

2006-06-18 Day 3

Today we drove, and we drove, and we drove, then we drove some more for a total of 922 miles; from Davenport, IA to Gillette, WY. We had made this drive in 2001, although not in one day, and we had forgotten the emotions that stirred within us as we gazed over the landscape of our beautiful country, the exhilaration we felt as a hawk dove for its morning snack, the awe as an eagle soared above. The abundance of wildlife made us smile like we were children.

Why would we drive 992 miles? We have learned that the Flying J's out west are not as RV friendly as those on the east. Very few have RV Islands and they all have fewer than 100 parking spaces for trucks. If there were RV spots they were for small coaches. So.. we went in search of a Wal-Mart. When we finally found one in Rapid City, SD, it did not allow overnight parking for RV's! So we drove some more. Things we discovered in South Dakota: those people love lawn mower racing, they offer to "Toe" your car or truck, and they have a really big drug store called Wall Drugs in Wall, SD.

Here is the big T-Rex that hangs out in their back yard - NO - we are not kidding.

T-Rex

Click to enlarge

2006 -06-19 Day 4

Today we did NOT drive 922 miles. After a night of only 3 hours sleep, Susan was not ready for another long day. We only went 223 miles in search of a Flying J in Billings, MT which again was a disappointment. We continued to Bozeman, MT and are now sitting in the Sunrise Campground. The drive here was interesting. Weather out here is unpredictable at best! We watched as dark clouds, horseshoe lightening, and hail headed our way. Driving through the mountains in blinding rain, hail, and strong wind gusts (which loosened the slide out awning) was a challenge, which John handled with ease. Tonight Susan did laundry, John found a Gold's Gym, did a workout, and the kitties got to play and watch birds instead of 18-wheelers.

2006-06-20 (Tue) Day 5

In John's life, he has driven cross country on I-10, 1-40, I-70 and the I-80/I-90 combination; the I-80/I-90 combination is the best. It has the least amount of traffic and exquisite scenery. He says that every time the realization of the kind of people our forefathers must have been to cross this country consumes his minds. You cannot help but to admire the pioneers that explored it.

As we left Bozeman we were surrounded by mountains, the southern ones, with the north face exposed, were covered with snow while the northern ones were not. When we entered Whitehall, MT we slowed down to watch a real life cattle drive, complete with cowboys, right down the middle of the road! Susan noted that Cows in the road are much better than Bison. (We found ourselves in the middle of a Bison stampede at Yellowstone NP during our honeymoon drive)

Just outside of Bearmouth, MT we stopped at a rest area so John could stretch his legs (he was a bit tight from his morning workout) and walked down to the river that runs alongside the highway. These Montana people sure know how to make a rest area pretty! As we were leaving the rest area John spotted a Bald Eagle (yes - a real one) right by the river. He was coming in for a landing with a big Trout in his talons. Words cannot describe the beauty of this sight.

As we were crossing the Bitterroot Mountain range (4,800 ft) we noticed a bike path. John started to salivate thinking about the work out that must be.

Around 3:00 we crossed into Washington and stopped at another Flying J. Yes, another let down. The price for diesel was $3.19 and there were only about 80 parking spaces so we continued on to find a resting place for the night. Driving along I-90 we spotted a fox and lots of farm land. We got our first glimpse of Mt. Rainier (14,310) in the distance. Just a little taste of what's to come when we get into the Canadian Rockies. We spent the night at E & J Campground so we could have a Wi-Fi connection. There was a little roadside stand that sold local cherries so of course Susan had to have some. They were very good!

Cattle Drive in the middle of the road Click to enlarge

John Chillin' by a Stream Click to enlarge

A Nice Rest Stop Click to enlarge

2006 -06-21 (Wed) Day 6

We will be entering Canada today and are not sure when internet connections will be available so our postings might be sporadic but they will appear so stay tuned.

Crossing the border into Canada was uneventful. Since we are members of Thousand Trail, we decided to take a day off from driving and spend the day at their Cultus Lake facility in Lindell Beach, British Columbia. Upon arriving at this immaculate campground nestled in a mountain range by the lake with a par three golf course at the entrance, it seems inevitable that we will spend another day here before we continue our travels.

Thousand Trails - Our Backyard

Click to enlarge

2006 -06-22 (Thu) Day 7 (Lindell Beach, BC)

John wanted to test drive his new bike so we decided on a bike ride this morning. John rode from the campground down to the path that runs along side of the Vedder River. Susan, of course, drove the car down there with here bike on top. The 8 mile drive from the camp ground to the river is a mountain road - need I say more! The path by the river was amazing - as we rode along the 14 mile gravel path we were surrounded by wildflowers and the sound of the running river. The water was so clear that you could see the rock bottom from the path. What we noticed most was the sound - quiet - expect for the river. The sound is what we notice most up here - or should I say the lack of sound. We can sit outside and the only thing we hear is the wind through the trees. WOW.

After the bike ride John had not had enough exercise so he rode back up the mountain rode then took off up a 3/12 mile mountain trial - straight up! Susan is glad she stayed home! He did get some great pictures.

Tomorrow it is off to McLeese Lake Resort, British Columbia - 320 miles closer to Alaska :)

Vedder River Bike Ride - Susan Click to enlarge	Vedder River Trail Click to enlarge
Vedder River Click to enlarge	Columbia Valley Click to enlarge
Tea Trail view of Cultus Lake Click to enlarge	Tea Pot Hill Vista Click to enlarge

2006-06-23 (Fri) Day 8 (McLeese Lake, BC)

We pulled out of Lindell Beach, BC at 6:00 and heading for McLeese Lake, BC. Driving through more breathtaking mountains, and fast moving rivers, we are again reminded just how big and beautiful this earth is.

We experienced our first (and hopefully last) rock slide today. Driving along the highway we noticed that cars were stopped and there was a lot of dust coming from the side of the mountain. It looked like there was a rock slide that the highway folks decided to help along. We stopped for about 1/2 hour and talked with a nice guy from British Columbia who was passing the time by hitting rocks with his hockey stick - only in Canada - he was heading to his cabin for a week of fishing. He told us to make sure we visit Morris Lake, YT.

We had just passed the town of Hells Gate when we came upon the Elvis Rocks Canyon Cafe complete with Elvis statues out front, neon guitars and Christmas lights! What a hoot. I guess you have to have something to get you through the long cold winters up here.

The roadside signs warning of wildlife changed from Deer to Elk to Bighorn Sheep to logging trucks. We did not see any Bighorn Sheep but we did see our first Loons.

We arrived at McLeese Lake Resort about 1:00. We must say that their version of a big rig and ours is a little different. Thank goodness John can parallel park this coach! Our space is small compared with Cherry Hill but the views our front window are incredible.

We decided to only stay here one night and head for K'san Village tomorrow. We want to cruise around town and Susan wants to do some shopping (big surprise there)

It was about 10:30 pm and it's just starting to get dark.

McLeese Lake Campground

Click to enlarge

2006-06-24 (Sat) Day 9 (Hazelton, BC)

Good morning from McLeese Lake. It is now 3:30 am and I decided look out my front window at the lake and it is daylight. The days are definitely long up here.

Today we head to K'san Village to meet up with out tour. Our first stop was in the town of Quesnel to visit Wal Mart! Time to grab some more movies since satellite service is no longer a possibility. We are way too far north.

Today we saw our first Moose sign. No Moose but lots of Moose signs. This leg of the trip takes us through areas where there are no mountains - - just lots of farm land. We are seeing more and more saw mills. It seems like there is one in every town! Susan does not like to see all the trees lined up ready to be turned into plywood.

As we approached the town of Engen we see plumes of smoke and wonder what the heck it is then realize that it is a controlled burn of the tree parts left over after the clear cutting. Steam is starting to come out of Susan's ears as what the logging companies are doing to the forests up here.

More Moose signs - no Moose. As we continue north the snow capped mountains return and we see another person with the Alaska RV Travel bumper sticker! We are beginning to get excited about the start of our tour. We pull over in the town of Smithers because the temp gauge has begun to spike for no reason. We know we topped the radiator off before we left but we pull over to check it our anyway. Good thing we did - as we got back in the coach we looked up and WOW - - we saw our first glacier from the road in the middle of town.

We continue on and the mountains get higher and every river is more beautiful than the last. Rounding a corner in Moricetown we both gasped! We were looking at the Moricetown Canyon. Of course we pulled over and John headed off down the bank to get a close up of the raging river. Much to her surprise, so did Susan. Words are not enough to say how incredible this was so here are the pictures. We figured without pictures nobody would believe Susan actually went out on the rocks.

More Moose signs - no Moose.

When we rounded a corner coming into Hazelton, BC Susan just about had a heart attack. The Hagwilget Bridge loomed in front of us. The best way to describe it is that it had to have been built with an erector set, and it is one lane! The Hagwilget Canyon of the Bulkley Canyon is one of the most photographed places in Canada. We can see why but the bridge frightened Susan as we crossed in out motorhome. Susan spend much of the crossing with here eyes closed.

When we arrived at the 'Ksan Campground, we found many others from our tour were already there. After we got settled in, the tour leader, Spike, came over to welcome us and give us our yellow vests. The campground is nestled at the confluence of the Skeena and Buckley rivers and surrounded by mountains. As we sit at the computer the view out our window is of the swift moving Buckley River with the majestic snow capped mountains to our left. The tallest of the mountains remind us of the Eiger Mountain from the movie The Eiger Sanction.

John went right out for a bike ride while Susan went around meeting our fellow travelers. We were both tired and decided to turn in early. Sleeping is not easy since it is still daylight at midnight and the sun is back up at 4:00 am.

Smoke from fire - not Susan Click to enlarge	John goes to the falls Click to enlarge
Susan made it too! Click to enlarge	Hagwilget Canyon Buckley River view from bridge Click to enlarge
K'San Village Campground (front yard) Click to enlarge	K'San Village Campground (back yard) Click to enlarge

2006-06-25 (Sun) Day 10 (Hazelton, BC)

This morning we decided to go for a bike ride so John could share the beauty he saw yesterday with Susan. The roads here have good bike lanes and do not have heavy traffic but they do have HILLS. Lots of hills (Susan made the journey from the campground to the Hagwilget Canyon. These pictures say it all. Everywhere we turn there are mountains and rivers. Oh yeah - there are also beware of bear signs.

Back at the campground we meet Roger, the tail gunner, who will be checking our coach and car for the journey and installing a screen on the front of the echo to prevent rock strikes. He also put a screen under the coach to prevent rock strikes to the engine. Much to our dismay the temperature here is in the high 80's - where is the cool weather we (ok Susan) were hoping for?

This evening we had our first of three orientation meetings. Spike told us about the area then got into some of the things we will be doing on the tour. It was a good time to meet and greet the folks we will be spending the next 33 days with. Everyone seems nice and it looks like we will all have a good time.

Susan on the Hagwilget Canyon Bridge Click to enlarge	Susan almost relaxed on the bridge Click to enlarge
Bear Sign - Where are they? Click to enlarge	View of Skeena River on bike ride Click to enlarge

2006-06-26 (Mon) Day 11 (Hazelton, BC)

Today is a free day for us to roam around the town of Hazelton. We had a nice lunch at a local cafe, watched a couple movies, and just relaxed. As we get ready for our second orientation meeting clouds fill the sky and the wind picks up. It looks like we will be getting some rain. Unfortunately one of the folks on the tour did not put up their awning and it blew back over their coach. John took off from the meeting and managed to catch it before it separated completely form the coach.

Alaska Discovery tour started 2006-06-27 in Hazelton, BC

Alaskan Discovery RV Tours

Our Guides, Spike & Stef - smarter than they look Click to enlarge

Roger of the Frog clan (FBI - F**king Big Indian) Click to enlarge

2006-06-27 (Tue) Day 12 (Hazelton, BC)

We carpooled to Kispiox which is ten miles from our campground to see totem poles that had once lined the Kispiox River. Spike explained the poles, their history and the many of the stories behind them. The poles are from various clans and families of the First Nation natives and Spike had to get permission to reveal their tales. It was a nice cool day so John decided to ride his bike back to take in ubiquitous spender. We visited the 'Ksan Historical Village and museum, a replica Gitksan (means of the 'Ksan) Indian village. The exhibits were in the long houses where each of the clans, Frog, Wolf, Fireweed, and Eagle, lived and conducted clan business in the winters. Later that evening, we were invited to watch the dress rehearsal of 'Ksan Native Dancers at the Wolf House here at the 'Ksan Native Village. Anecdotes and legends were displayed on stage. John was one of the men chosen in the husband stealing dance and he got to display his native dancing skill and Susan had to inform him that he should stop now, the music was over.

2006-06-28 (Wed) Day 13 (Hyder, AK)

We rolled out of 'Ksan bright and early headed for Hyder, AK. On the way we stopped at a couple more First Nation villages to view some more totem poles. Once on the highway Spike pointed out that the bears, fresh from their winter slumber, like to munch on the daisies that grow wild right beside the roadway. He instructed us to keep our eyes open and moving to catch a glimpse of them. Susan was first to spot a bear in a small ravine to the right of the highway. She quickly radioed the information and mile marker to the rest of the group. There were two more sightings along the way and we got to see both of them. Total bear count for the day - 3. We also got a glimpse of the Alaska state bird, the Ptarmigan. It looks a lot like a cross between a Chicken and a Grouse. One of our stops was at Bear Glacier. What a sight(The bluest ice you have ever seen. There was a river between us and the glacier and John just had to hike down there and touch the water. Yes was cold! As we turned down the road to Hyder, we were awe struck at the beauty that unfolded before our eyes. Each turn gave us a new view of the mountains and the wonder that was ours to explore. Hyder has a bear viewing area called Fish Creek and before we even slid the rooms out we were in the car and on our way. Much to our dismay we did not see any bears. The spawning salmon have not returned yet so there is nothing for the bears to eat yet. (John wanted to ride his bike the 4 miles to the area but the manager of the park called bikers "meals on wheels". We all got a good laugh out of that one.)

2006-06-29 (Thu) Day 14 (Hyder, AK)

This morning we hit the road running. After a quick stop at Fish Creek to see if the fish had returned we were off to Salmon Glacier, the fifth largest glaciers in Canada. It is actually in Canada and not Alaska. A very long drive of 21 miles, at 10 - 20 miles per hour on a dirt and gravel road was well worth the trip. We can't even begin to explain what we saw. It is one of those feeling where you just stand there with your mouth wide open (watch out for the mosquitoes) and your eyes as big as silver dollars. When we got to the top there was this guy called The Bear Man who lives up there all summer and takes pictures of the glacier, the bears, and other "stuff". He is like the welcome committee. He sells his books and DVD's and loves to talk about the glacier. He told us about the old glacier road and how if you follow it you can get really close to the glacier. Close enough to climb down the rocks and actually walk on the glacier. That was all John needed to hear and we were in the car and on our way.

John was sweating as John does so he was taking a shower when there was a knock on the door. There were a couple of bald eagles flying around above our campground. Susan grabbed the binoculars; John wrapped a towel around his waist, and eagle watching we went. Well, there was a crowd but that did not stop John. After the watching these spectacular birds a while, encouragement came from the crowd to drop the towel. Susan warned them but it was too late; we watched the eagles with a full moon!

Later that evening, we went to the Sea Alaska Inn for a delicious breaded halibut with a garlic seasoning.

Note: It is 11:00PM and it is still light out. We are on our way to Deese Lake tomorrow and Spike says we will gain 45 more minutes of daylight! We may not sleep until we get home :(

Vista from Hyder Click to enlarge

John on the Glacier Click to enlarge

Salmon Glacier Click to enlarge

2006-06-30 (Fri) Day 15 (Dease Lake, BC) (it is 9:30 at night while we are writing this and the sun is still high in the sky - like about 5:00 in the evening in DC)

We rolled out of bed bright and early this morning (4:00 am) so we could run down to the Sea Alaska Inn and use their WiFi connection while in the coach. We parked in front and John got the connection so we could check our email, pay some bills, and update our website.

Leaving Hyder at 8:00 was sad. Both of us fell in love with the people and the place that is Hyder. Folk, young and old, said hello and initiated a conversation wherever we went. Every where you look the scenery is incredible. For such a small town it has everything.

Just after we passed through customs to reenter Canada John saw a bear running across the road. Susan missed this because she was fussing with the curtain on her side. Darn it. This was the only bear either of us saw during our stay in Hyder.

Each coach left Hyder at its own pace since the road back to Meziadin Junction is mostly straight up. We all left the Junction at 10:00 am and headed for Dease Lake, BC. Around 40 miles north of Meziadin the road lost the center line markings and became a bit narrower. We continue on and we come across some construction - a good thing - maybe not. We soon discovered that the Cassiar Highway is worse than even The Milepost (the bible of North Country travel) describes. Small patches of gravel became large patches of gravel which became all gravel which became dirt. How can a road that is so frequently traveled be dirt? Not just plain level dirt - dirt that is wet down with Calcium Hydroxide, which is slow to evaporate, to try and hold down the dust. Let me tell you - it does not work. As you can see from the picture of our car there is a lot of dust. Now the dust is bad enough but there are ripple pot holes everywhere - for miles and miles. You shake and rattle so much you think a filling might fall out. We were very concerned for Mitts and Neon, our cats, and wondered if they would ever be the same. We were on the gravel/dirt part of the road so long that a chorus of "Follow the Gravel Dirt Road" ("Wizard of Oz") broke out on the radios we all carry to stay in constant contact. Rocks, boulders and dirt, oh my!

On the bright side, the Cassiar Highway is spectacular. All the bumps and dirt are worth it, many times over. We were treated to some of the best scenery yet. Surrounded by snow capped mountains, fast moving rivers, and flowers like Lupines, Arctic Rose, and Fire Weed blazing all around us.

We arrived at Dease Lake tired and a bit shaky but in great spirits so John went for a bike ride. Our journey north is just beginning and the best is yet to come - - longer days - - shorter nights,Ts(Btay tuned for more...

The Echo after the long dirt road

Click to enlarge

2006-07-01 (Sat) Day 16 (Watson Lake, Yukon) Happy Canada Day

This morning we left Dease Lake at 9:30 heading to the Yukon! Spike told us that today we not be on the horrible roads again - just 18 miles of packed dirt - which turned out to be rather pleasant.

When we stopped alongside a beautiful lake for our first 10 minute break and the girls put on a show by doing the Can Can in the middle of the road then the boys grabbed their buckets and shovels and went digging for gold in them there hills : Spike told us that on several of their caravan folks had found gold there. Over the last 50 years there had been rock slides which cause the minerals high in the mountain to wash down by the road. We will wash through the buckets of dirt this evening in camp.

As we were getting ready to leave when Susan took the binoculars to scan the bank of the lake and there was a MOOSE standing there looking at the caravan. All of a sudden the radios started buzzing - folks in the back also spotted a Moose swimming in the lake at their end! WOW - there were Moose everywhere.

We took our lunch break at Jade City. Susan shopped, had a lesson on jade, shopped, watched a video about jade, and then did some more shopping. Our group got a 20% discount on all our purchases so this was a good time to start our Christmas shopping. At least that was Susan's excuse.

As we got closer to the Yukon the Fire Weed lined the side of the road and the Arctic Rose's were in full bloom. Spike came on the radio to let us know that we were entering an area where we might see Dall sheep. Just as he finished speaking he came back to say that there were 3 sheep standing on the side of the road. They like to lick the salt left there from treating the roads during the winter.

For our last break we stopped alongside Blue Lake for Salmon Dip and a few announcements. We have a couple from Canada in our group so we all sang O Canada with them in honor of Canada Day. Spike also got all the June birthday people (Susan's was the 13th) together so everyone could sing Happy Birthday to them.

Crossing into the Yukon John mentioned that he had wanted to come here ever since he wrote a paper about it in the 6th grade. Today he is here.

A childhood dream come true for John

Click to enlarge

2006-07-02 (Sun) Day 17 (Skagway, AK, day 1 of 4 days)

We left Watson Lake at 8:30 on our journey to Skagway. The drive through the Yukon Plateau was pleasant and we saw some our best wildlife yet. Spike announced that there was a big black bear on our left and he was not kidding. This guy was huge but as we approached him he started to turn and head back into the woods. No picture. Next was a fox, they are way too fast to get a picture.

Since it is Sunday we stopped for our prayer meeting at the continental divide. What a beautiful place to thank the Lord for all of our blessings. We sang hymns, America the Beautiful and The Star Spangled Banner, since it is so close to July 4th. We have a few people that are in choir back home so it sounded nice!

Our lunch stop was at Teslin Lake. The owner had given Spike permission for us to park in his adjoining campground, which is right on the lake, so we went in to his restaurant for lunch to say thanks. Susan had the Halibut burger which was out of this world. It was an enormous piece of halibut that was cooked to perfection. There was also a little wildlife museum and gift shop on the property so we moseyed on in for a look around. The museum had life size black and grizzly bears, arctic fox, moose, caribou, and just about every other animal you would expect to see in this part of the world. Susan said a further thank-you by buying a few items from the very nice gift shop.

As we continued our journey to Skagway we weaved back and forth between the Yukon and British Columbia and traveled through more fantastic landscape. Approaching Alaska we went through the tormented valley, named because of the fierce weather there. The snow and wind is so severe that there are trees that are 200-400 years old and are only about 3 feet high. It is an eerie sight, to say the least. Once we passed through US Customs it was down hill all the way to Skagway. Literally, down hill all the way!

Skagway is derived from an Indian word meaning "home of the North Wind" which can blow, at times, up to 75 miles per hour in the warm afternoons.

2006-07-03 (Mon) Day 18 (Skagway, AK, day 2 of 4 days)

This morning, we went to the Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park run by the National Forest Service. We watched a film of the gold rush and had a guided tour of the museum and Skagway.

During the Klondike Gold Rush, Skagway and Dyea, Skagway's sister city, were the gateways to the Klondike via the Chilkoot and White Pass (also known as the "Dead Horse") Trails which funneled thousands of frenzied fortune seekers. Since Skagway is a main stop for the many cruise ships that venture up the inside passage, a good way to get out of the city is to spend was an afternoon hike up the famous Chilkoot Trail. This trail was known as the "poor man's route". Stampeeders had to backpack their year's worth of supplies 33 miles to Lake Lindeman, which included 40 trips up and down the 45 degree "Golden Stairs" to the 3,500 feet high pass. We hiked along the first 2.5 - 3 miles that at times went straight up on rocks and tree roots. Even though there was a depression in the U.S., there was gold for the taken, it is hard to imagine enough motivation that would drove these men and women up this trail.

That evening we went to the "98 Show", a comical perspective of the 1890's history of Skagway and the infamous "Soapy" Smith. The "women of the evening", who also doubled as can-can girls, in the show taunted an temped a member of our group, now know as "Klondike Mike", to join them upstairs in their parlor. He became an intricate part of the show garbed in a night gown and even joined the women in song on stage. Even better, Susan got to show here talents as a can-can dancer on stage! John fell in love all over again.

When we got home the group set up our chairs and tables full of snacks to watch the 11:00 pm fireworks display over the bay. It was a bit weird watching fireworks in the daylight!

Dyea Flats in route to Chillkoot Trail Click to enlarge	Vancouver Fijord in route to Dyea Click to enlarge	Chillkoot Trailhead Click to enlarge
Susan on th Chillkoot Trail Click to enlarge	Susan climbing on the Chillkoot Trail Click to enlarge	Chillkoot Vista Click to enlarge
The Shooting of "Soapy" Smith Click to enlarge	Can Can, Can You do the Can Can Click to enlarge	"Klondike Mike" Click to enlarge

2006-07-04 (Tue) Day 19 (Skagway, AK, day 3 of 4 days)

John is insane. After yesterday's activities did John relax? No, he decided to ride his bike from Skagway to the White Pass summit which is a 13 mile ride from sea level to 3,292 feet. It took him 3 hours to the summit and 19 minutes back to Skagway.

Susan enjoyed some of the Fourth of July festivities while John was riding. There was a Kid's parade (very cute), the town's parade (Mounties, antique cars, community's organizations etc...) and FOOD! At the exact time Soapy Smith was killed our leader, Spike, and a full cast of characters, in period attire, reenacted the gun battle that took his life.

When John returned, showered and we took in the rest of the festivities together which included a tug of war, egg toss, arm wresting, horseshoe tournament, slow bike race, spike driving contest and the 11th annual ducky derby. This tourist town really maintained a small home town atmosphere on the fourth.

2006-07-05 (Wed) Day 20 (Skagway-Haines, AK, day 4 of 4 days)

After a very full day yesterday you think we would relax a bit but no, not us. We both wanted to go for a bike ride so we jumped on the 8:00 AM ferry to Haines, AK with our bikes in tow. The maps and brochures showed The Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve about 20 miles from the ferry dock and the topography looked pretty flat since the road followed the Chilkat River. This area becomes home to the largest eagle gathering on earth. The Chilkat River does not freeze over and a late run of up to 100,000 chum salmon arrive to spawn from November to January. During the summer, local eagle populations are much lower, but, with 80 active nests and up to 400 resident eagles on the river, we were hoping to see a few of them.

Our first sighting surprised us when we rounded a slight bend in the road and there were 8 eagles above the water apparently looking at the same fish. One of the Bald Eagles and one of the Golden Eagles had a little skirmish and ended up losing the fish. The other birds flew around for a minute or so before taking off to find a roost high atop the trees to continue there search for food. As we traveled on we continued to spot Bald Eagles every few miles, either flying overhead or sitting in the tree tops. They are pretty easy to spot; just look for a golf ball in the top of a tree. Most likely it will be an eagle. When we reached the 20 mile mark and decided to turn around and head back to the ferry (before Susan passed out) an eagle came out of nowhere and looked like he was going to dive bomb us. Susan had just opened a Cliff bar and we wondered if he saw it :-)

Our ride back to the ferry was slow but we continued to see eagles; in fact we saw so many that we lost count. Poor John had to ride so slow because Susan was totally out of energy. Susan was very tired since this was her first long ride of the summer. We finally made it back to Skagway just in time for Susan to pass out for the night.

Welcome to the Preserve Click to enlarge

Eagle Flying Over the River Click to enlarge

Another Eagle Cruising Over Head Click to enlarge

2006-07-06 (Thu) Day 21 (Whitehorse, YT, day 1 of 3 days)

This morning we said goodbye to Skagway. It felt good to be back on the road and ready for a new adventure. Today is a short driving day but we have lots to see and do on the way to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory. As we came around a bend in the road we both spotted this large long-legged animal with huge furry paws and pointed ears tipped with long tufts of fur. We asked at the same time. "What is that"? At the same time we both replied "A Lynx". You have to understand that a Lynx is one of the most reclusive species in North America, and perhaps the world. No kidding, we saw one.

Our lunch stop today is a place called Caribou Crossing Trading Post. It is a combination BBQ chuck wagon, Café, Gift Shop, Museum, and more. They offer dog sled rides and have lots of puppies, of all ages, you can hold. Susan had fun cuddling with a cute little black one. They even had this funny black horse who was laying in the mud with a big smile on his/her (we did not look that close) face. Look at the picture! Their wildlife museum is something you would expect to see at the Smithsonian. The BBQ lunch was good and you could even eat at a picnic table set up inside a covered wagon.

Whitehorse, the capitol of Canada's Yukon Territory, has a population of 23,000 people so it is the biggest city we have been in so far on the tour. We arrived early enough to take a quick tour of the hydro-electric dam that was built in 1958 to tame Miles Canyon and has replaced the once foaming White Horse Rapids with Schwatka Lake reservoir. Whitehorse also has the longest wooden Fish Ladder in the World. In case you do not know, a fish ladder is a series of pools on an incline separated by short increments so as to enable fish to swim up past the dam.

Note: the sun rises at 3:30am and sets at 11:30pm and it never really gets dark, just dusk. It is really hard to get used to going to sleep in the light and waking up in the light. We can't imagine how it must be in the winter when the darkness sets in.

Yes - They Really are THAT Big. Click to enlarge

Look at That Smile! Click to enlarge

Susan Wanted to Take This One With Her Click to enlarge

2006-07-07 (Fri) Day 22 (Whitehorse, YT, day 2 of 3 days)

Our first stop today was a Yukon River Cruise aboard the MV Schwatka. We cruised through Miles Canyon where Jack London of literary fame piloted any manner of hastily build craft through the White Horse Rapids for $25. From there we moved on to the Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre where we learned about the lost sub-continent of the last great ice age. You can learn more about it at: www.nps.gov/akso/beringia/whatisberingia2.htm

Susan took her turn at trying to use an Atlatl, a piece of wood that is used a launch pad for throwing a dart. She managed to throw hers as far as some of the men. OK so most of the men on the trip are 65+. The next tour was of the SS Klondike II, a sternwheeler of Gold Rush days. Our evening was spent enjoying the Frantic Follies, a very funny and a bit off center song and dance show. They sang, danced and told some very funny jokes. All in all, it was an enjoyable day.

On the way home, at 10:20 pm (of course the sun was still up) and we saw a wolf walking down the gravel service road. He was walking like he owned the road. Only in the Yukon!

Our Yukon Cruise Boat Click to enlarge

Everyone DUCK! Click to enlarge

The Restored SS Klondike Click to enlarge

2006-07-08 (Sat) Day 23 (Whitehorse, YT, day 3 of 3 days)

Today was a free day so John jumped on his bike and went for a ride and did a work out. Susan caught up on house work and laundry. We went grocery shopping and saw a deer. Tonight we are having a steak cookout at the RV park with our caravan folks.

2006-07-09 (Sun) Day 24 (Dawson City, YT, day 1 of 4 days)

We left Whitehorse at 8:30 sharp. Spike, our tour leader, is very prompt and so is everyone else on the tour.

As we made our journey along the Alaskan and Klondike Highways Spike told us that this is the first year Dawson City has had regular electricity. In the past they had run completely on generators. All of their streets are still dirt and they have no desire to pave them. We really are stepping back in time.

Our morning break was at the Braeburn Lodge for their "World Famous" sticky buns. Look at the size of that thing. It was really good but it will take the two of us all day to finish it

Driving along we saw, what must be, the biggest beaver dam on the planet. We also saw the biggest black bear we have seen so far. He/she was standing on the edge of the forest watching us drive by. Susan tried to get a picture but all she got was the screen door of the coach so we borrowed one from the Kurtz's, another couple on the tour.

The further north we go we begin to encounter frost heaves, also known as "whoop-de-doos". Some can be very deep so you must drive slowly thru them. The trees along side the road take on a new look as we enter a permafrost area. Since the top soil is only 12-18 inches deep, below that is solid ice, they lean all which way making them look drunk. In fact, these types or forests are called "drunken forests".

Our odometer clicks over to 39,000. It was at 34,000 when we left DC.

Dawson City lies at the western end of the meeting of two continental plates so this was a perfect place for our last break of the day. The line between these plates, called the Tintina Trench, continues eastward for several hundred kilometers. It was one of the most incredible sights we have ever seen. We will let the photo speak for itself.

2006-07-10 (Mon) Day 25 (Dawson City, YT, day 2 of 4 days)

John went for an early ride to midnight dome, a dome shaped mountain, before we were scheduled for our city tour with Parcs Canada. The ride was not as long as the ride out of Skagway but the steepest section of Skagway was level compared to the midnight dome's grade, the road was gravel. John did make friends with a fox (obviously the tourist feed him). A woman at the top of midnight dome promised to email pictures she took of them. Keep you fingers crossed.

When John returned, he took a shower then we all gathered at the Dawson City Visitors Center for a historic walking tour of the town. The young lady, Rachel, was in period attire and was one of the best guides we have ever seen. She works for Parcs Canada and made the tour fun and exciting. Actually, all of the people, with Parcs Canada, that we have met are great! The know their stuff and present it in ways that keep you interested all the while teaching you about the history and culture of their area.

After we left the hands of Rachel we got back in our cars for a driving tour of Dawson City that included Jack London's cabin and the house that Robert Service lived in for his 4 years here in Dawson. We got very lucky that a friend of Spike's was the Parks Canada employee there and gave us some history about Robert Service and read some of his work, all for free!

That evening most of the group put on their tall boots and headed out to Bonanza Creek to try their hand at panning for gold. Of course Susan went along and caught a bit of gold fever. She came home with a small vile that contained 4-5 small pieces of gold. She noted that she would be going back out tomorrow. John stayed at the coach, did a workout and gave some much needed attention to the cats. They have been holding up pretty well during the trip but we have tried to give them extra attention to make sure they have a good time also.

Rachel, our Parcs Canada Tour Guide Click to enlarge

Susan caught the GOLD fever Click to enlarge

2006-07-11 (Tue) Day 26 (Dawson City, YT, day 3 of 4 days)

Most of the group headed out this morning for a tour of the Commissioner's House in Dawson City. Since the Yukon is a territory they have a different type of government than the Provinces of Canada. Their commissioner, while appointed and not elected, acts like our senators or representatives. John decided not to go on the tour and went for a 40 mile bike ride.

Later that afternoon we went on a tour Gold Dredge #4. Again run by Parcs Canada. Our guide was very good and knew a lot about the dredging operations. When you see these dredges you wonder how the heck they got all the parts to build them way the hell up here when you can't even find a Diet Dr. Pepper in the local market. ~hehe~

After the tour a few more of us went back to Bonanza Creek to continue our gold fever. John filled the bucket for Susan and even panned one pan. He did not find gold, nor did he seem to care, and took off on his bike and headed back to the park for a total gym workout. Little did he know that he had shoveled the best bucket of the day. Susan found enough gold to fill ½ of a glass locket. See for your self.

When we returned to the park we found that Roger, the RV tech) had been cooking up a storm. He had prepared a salmon bake for us all. He knew we were having our midnight sun party and wanted to make sure we all got a good dinner to give us strength to stay up that late. We decided on the party so we could all take a group picture with the clock showing midnight and the sun just behind the mountains. The sun does not really set during these summer months. It merely drops behind the mountains for an hour or so then pops right back up for another 22 hours of bright and sunny, daylight.

John (faking) panning for gold Click to enlarge

The GOLD Susan panned - - secured in a locket Click to enlarge - but this is the actual size :-)

Midnight and the sun is still in the sky! Click to enlarge

2006-07-12 (Wed) Day 27 (Dawson City, YT, day 4 of 4 days)

Today is a free day. We cleaned, went grocery shopping, ate lunch at Klondike Kate's, took a ride 50 miles up the Dempster Highway which brought us within 200 miles of the Artic Circle, saw a an artic fox, took a one last ride to midnight dome, saw a lightning strike that started a forest fire twenty miles from here, and watched tanker planes put it out. Just another typical day in the Klondike.

Now that's a sticky bun Click to enlarge	The bear looks better than our screen Click to enlarge
Trintrina Trench - Awesome! Click to enlarge	Foxtail Barley and Fireweed Click to enlarge

2006-07-13 (Thu) Day 28 (Tok, Alaska, day 1 of 1)

We left Dawson bright and early today (6:30 AM). Each coach left separately since we had to cross the Yukon River on a very small ferry. They took a maximum of 2 coaches, along with a few regular cars, on each crossing. Susan was a little leery but managed to keep her eyes open the entire time.

We all gathered at a look out over the Yukon to continue our drive together across the "Top of the World Highway". This highway, if you can really call it that, makes the Cassiar look easy. We all must have looked like we were drunk the way we were weaving to dodge the enormous potholes and large areas of ripples. As we crossed into the tundra the landscape changed and the trees become less frequent. Again we see the drunken forest where the trees try to grow on permafrost and end up tilting every which way. Riding along we really do feel like we are on the top of the world. There are clouds and mountain tops as far as you can see. John looks down at Co-Pilot and the top of the screen says "Bear left on Top of the World". Very fitting.

Our lunch stop today is in Chicken, Alaska. Susan has been excited about visiting this little town since we began planning the trip. Yes, we ate chicken and it was really good! For those of you who may not be familiar with Chicken, here are some Chicken facts:

-Chicken is called Chicken because the original settlers, actually gold-miners, couldn't spell Ptarmigan. Ptarmigan is the Alaska state bird and it looks and tastes like - you guessed it, a chicken. So, since they could not spell Ptarmigan they shortened it to just plain Chicken.
-Winter population is around 15. Summer numbers soar to 30 - 50.
-No, they do not have a telephone OR a flush toilet. The Chicken Poop is down by the gift shop.
-They close in the winter - so does the road. No plows till April
-Mail comes by plane every Tuesday and Friday, weather permitting.
-Their electricity comes from a generator. While we were there they blew 2 fuses and we were in the dark for about 15 minutes. Not dark, because it never gets dark in the summer, but you get the idea.

We passed through several areas that had been ravaged by forest fires on the past 10-12 years. It is weird to see the tree trunks standing that have been burned and are dead. Spike explained to us that they are black spruce trees and when they catch fire they make a big whoosh sound then go straight up until flames shoot about 20 feet in the air. When all the oily leaves burn off the flames go out and the dead trunks are left standing. One of the first things to come back is the fireweeds. In some areas they blanket the entire side of a mountain. This picture does not do it justice. The colors range from very light to vibrant magenta.

As we crested the next mountain we got our first view of the Alaska Range. John vivid description was reduced to one word; WHOA, then two words; WHOA, WHOA.

Our campground for the evening had a bar so we all gathered for a party celebrating our survival of the Top of the World Highway. There aren't enough drinks in Alaska to make me want to go on that road again. Somehow there was a leak in the right side window of the Echo so parts of the inside look much like the outside. YUCK!

Top of the World Highway Click to enlarge

Chicken Click to enlarge

Chicken "Poop" Click to enlarge

2006-07-14 (Fri) Day 29 (Fairbanks, Alaska, day 1 of 3 days)

We all left Tok together and rode along the Alaskan Range all the way to Fairbanks. The further north we go the larger the frost heaves get and at times we feel like we are riding a roller coaster.

Our lunch stop today was at Rika's Roadhouse. This lodge, built at Big Delta in 1914, was the hub of civilization between Fairbanks and the Canadian border between 1904 and 1942. We had a quick lunch then walked the grounds. There was a big pen with turkeys, chickens, and these funny ducks with a puff of feathers on top of their heads. Here we got our first look at the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. Susan was amazed at just how big it really is.

Our afternoon stop was at North Pole, AK and Santa Land. YEA! Here you can take your picture (with your own camera) with Santa and Mrs. Clause. Yes Susan dug out the Santa hats and we took our picture with jolly old St. Nick. Like John could have stopped her. Their store was filled with Christmas goodies and you can even fill out your holiday cards and they will send them out, just in time for Christmas, with a stamp from the North Pole. They also have reindeer out back that like to have their pictures taken and will even let you feel their antlers.

Our campground in Fairbanks is right on the Chena River and beautiful. We are now far enough north that the sun does not set at all- Great!

Alaska Pipeline Click to enlarge

We have been good. :) Click to enlarge

Not "Wild Turkey" Click to enlarge

2006-07-15 (Sat) Day 30 (Fairbanks, Alaska, day 2 of 3 days)

Today we have two planned activities, a boat ride on the Riverboat Discovery and a true Alaskan Salmon Bake.

Our boat ride was a 3 ½ hour cruise that took us into the heart of Alaska and the heart of a family who has made the rivers of Alaska a way of life for four generations. We got to see a bush plane take off from the river, had a stop at Susan Butcher's Trailbreakers Kennel, (unfortunately she was not there, she is fighting, and winning, her battle with Leukemia at a hospital in Seattle) and a visit to a Chena Indian Village to learn more about the heritages of the Athabasca Indians and the Inupiaq Eskimos. Along the way we also saw Governor Murkowski's homestead, several modern log homes, a reindeer farm, and a fish camp where we learned about the importance of salmon to the Athabasca culture.

A quick clean up at the campground and we were on our way to our first Salmon Bake. Susan loved it! All you can eat salmon, prime rib, halibut, cod, and all the fixings. John enjoyed a small plate while Susan sampled everything, some twice. For desert they had great cakes with these amazing local blueberries. Susan wanted to bring the whole tray of blueberries home with her. We had lots of fun chatting with our new friends and enjoying a beautiful Alaskan evening.

First Nation clothing Click to enlarge

Float Plane Click to enlarge

2006-07-16 (Sun) Day 31 (Fairbanks, Alaska, day 3 of 3 days)

Today was a free day and we had planned to go for a long bike ride but Mother Nature had other plans for us. We awoke to rain so we decided to take a ride out to Chena Hot Springs Resort. Boy, are we glad we did. On the way there we saw 3 Moose. YES, 3 Moose! One trotted across the road right in front of us. Another one was standing in a pond munching away. She would occasionally lift her head up and give us a glance just to make sure we were keeping our distance. When we got the resort we discovered they had an Ice Museum/Hotel on the property. We went in the museum and were amazed. There is a open layout with lots of displays and the Stoli Ice Bar. Of course Susan had a Apple Martini in, get this, an ice martini glass! We got to roam around and take pictures of everything. The martini was very strong and Susan got a bit drunk, but, she got to keep the glass. It melted a bit during the ride home but it is in the freezer. We hope it makes it till we get home. On the way back to the campground we saw another moose. This one was even closer. She was also stand in the middle of a pond munching. She turned frequently to keep her eyes on us and others who had stopped to take her picture.

This afternoon is spent getting ready for our trip tomorrow and getting the coach ready for a quick departure when we head to Denali.

Moose! Click to enlarge

Ice Bar Click to enlarge

Moose! Click to enlarge

2006-07-16 (Mon) Day 32 (Fairbanks, Alaska, day 4 of 3 days)(Denali - day 1 of 2 days)

Day trip above the Artic Circle - "day 4 of 3 days"? We really want to get to the Arctic Circle but we heard the road would destroy a motorhome or our echo so we decided to let someone else do the driving/flying for us. The first available tour was Monday so we left for the Artic Circle Fly/Drive excursion with, Northern Alaska Tour Company, at 4:30 am as our caravan left for Denali at 10:00 am. We will catch up with them there.

When we got to the airport to board our flight the tour director said that since the ceiling was low we would be driving up. We should have known right then that today would be a challenge but we were excited and said "what the heck" it doesn't matter which way we fly. As we left Fairbanks for the 9 hour drive the weather began to deteriorate and the rain started falling. We knew the Dalton Highway was going to be rough but we had no idea what it would be like during a torrential rain storm with fog so dense you could not see past 10 feet in either direction around the bus.

Our guide, Seth, was lots of fun and knowledgeable about each area we drove through. He told us that the Dalton Highway was built in only 7 days. Not so hard to believe when you are riding on this, seemingly, one lane dirt road with more pot holes than you can imagine! Until 1978 the road was private and used only for the Trans Alaska pipeline and Alyeska. The 800-mile-long Trans Alaska Pipeline System (TAPS) is one of the largest pipeline systems in the world. It stretches from Prudhoe Bay on Alaska's North Slope, through rugged and beautiful terrain, to Valdez, the northernmost ice-free port in North America. When the road was opened to the public the horror stories about how fast the truckers drove began to fly. We found just about all of the trucks to be courteous and slowed down when they approached our little van. Only one was wild and sent a wall of water and mud over the van.

We went through an area where a wildfire had destroyed millions of acres and fireweed now covers the ground as far as you can see. Fortunately we had come out of the rain and fog and the sky was bright so the colors were unbelievable. The photo does not do it justice. We stopped to pick up our lunch at the Yukon River Inn and learned that since September 11, 2001, the bridge there that crosses the Yukon River is under 24 hour surveillance. In fact, there are big speakers every 20 or so feet on the bridge and if you stop on the bridge you will be surrounded by security forces in a matter of minutes. Two other couples from our group decided to drive their own cars up and when they stopped at the Yukon River Inn for fuel and food they were questioned by a security officer as to why they were in the area and how long they intended to stay. With everything we learned about the Trans Alaska Pipeline and its importance we understand their need for tight security

At 12:28 in the afternoon we stepped across a dotted line on a red carpet (a fun thing the tour company does) into the Arctic Circle. We all celebrated by taking lots of photos and eating tundra mud cake with perma-frosting, another fun thing supplied by the tour company. When we were all finished with our celebrations we got back on the bus just before the rain started again. Seth then presented each of us with our official certificate showing that we did, indeed, cross the Arctic Circle. Our drive did not end there as we were to continue on to Coldfoot, AK where the airport, and I use that word loosely, was to meet our return flight. We had all been talking on the bus about the weather and that we would be lucky if we got to fly back to Fairbanks. Our luck had run out and we could not fly out so we got on another bus to begin our 9 hour return to Fairbanks. We got back to our coach at about 12:30 am and immediately headed for Denali National Park and Preserve. All in all it was a great day. We saw 4 moose, 2 fox, and 1 black bear, and we crossed the Arctic Circle. What more can you ask?

Dalton Hwy to Artic Circle Click to enlarge	Fireweed! Click to enlarge
We made it!! Click to enlarge	The official crossing Click to enlarge

2006-07-17 (Tues) Day 33 (Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska, day 2 of 2 days)

We arrived in Denali at 3:25 am and managed to get a few hours sleep before our big day and another bus ride.

This morning we boarded a Denali National Park and Preserve tour bus with our wonderful driver, Rose, for our 8 hour tour through the park. Denali has been using the bus transport system since 1972 in order to limit the environmental impact on the land and wildlife. Within the first hour we rounded a corner and there it was - Mt. McKinley (the natives still call it Denali, which means the great one) - all 20,320 feet of it! Rose told us that we were very lucky to get a glimpse of this majestic mountain since only 1 in 5 visitors actually see it due to the low clouds that frequent the area.

Our first wildlife sighting was not long after when we spotted 6 Dall sheep munching on grass high on the rocky slopes. Another few miles and all of a sudden there was commotion on the left side of the bus when we spotted a Golden Eagle that had just grabbed a ground squirrel in its enormous talons. This all happened so fast we did not get a photo but some of our group did. We are hoping they will email us a copy.

All together we saw about 10 Caribou, an entire family of Ptarmigan (the Alaska state bird) and many more Dall sheep. Our bear sightings were the highlight of the tour. First we saw several groups of 3 and 4 moms and cubs eating the berries that flourish this time of year. Our best bear sighting was a mom and two cubs that were playing in an open field. The two cubs were so fun to watch.

By the end of the bus ride we had seen a total of 14 bears and 4 eagles, 2 bald and 2 golden. A fun fact about Denali is that all the rivers flow north to the Yukon then on to the Bering Sea.

Bears in Denali Click to enlarge

McKinley in Denali Click to enlarge

2006-07-19 (Wed) Day 35 (Anchorage, Alaska, day 1 of 4 days)

We left Denali at 10:30 and headed for Anchorage. Our drive today took us down the George Parks Highway. We stopped along the way for one last look at Denali through broken clouds. What a magnificent mountain!

Our lunch break today was a little café that serves two kinds of soup, and a sandwich for $6.95 and you can get a piece of homemade pie. Susan tried Rhubarb for the first time and loved it.

Our last break for today was at the Iditarod National Headquarters and Museum where we saw two films about the famous race. Some of our group got to go on sled dog rides while others of us opted to play with the puppies. Susan tired to snatch a puppy but John made her give it back :-) Susan also got to have her picture taken next to a photo of Susan Butcher, 4 time Iditarod champion, who is no fighting a rare form of lukemia in a Seattle Hospital.

We rolled into Anchorage about 5 and spent our evening stocking up on supplies at Wal Mart.

Iditerod Headquaters Click to enlarge

Isn't he cute? Click to enlarge

2006-07-20 (Thurs) Day 36 (Anchorage, Alaska, day 2 of 4 days)

Today Spike gave us his city tour with stops at the Alaskan Fur Exchange (Susan had a hard time with this one), Black Elk Beads & Leather, The ULU Factory, and the Float Plane Harbor. Not only do planes take off from the water there but you have to share the road with ones that want to take off from land. Very weird feeling to come to a stop sign and wait for a plane to cross in front of you.

Since today is Spike's birthday we had a big potluck complete with birthday cake, a sing-along, and a gift exchange, for everyone that did not have a birthday during the tour, which everyone enjoyed. Judy, our den mother, has been making sure every birthday and anniversary during the tour is celebrated. She reminds us of our friend Sandy in Maryland they way she makes sure everyone is having fun.

Spike & Roger Can-Can Click to enlarge

Happy Birthday Spike! Click to enlarge

2006-07-21 (Fri) Day 37 (Anchorage, Alaska, day 3 of 4 days)

WOW - What a day. We headed out for a visit to Turnagain Arm, Indian Valley Meats (Susan loved this place - She is bringing home lots of canned Salmon and reindeer sausage), Portage Glacier, and the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Park.

At Portage Glacier Susan commented that she finally felt like she was in Alaska as the wind whipped, the rain came down, and the fog descended on us. Standing beside Portage Lake and looking at 5 different glaciers all feeding into this one lake was a feeling that just can't be explained. No matter which way you turned, it was spectacular.

Things just got better when we stopped at the Alaska Conservation Center where they take in and care for injured wildlife. Their goal is to return the animals to the wild but there are some that just get too used to humans and end up staying there. This is very good for us. We saw black and grizzly bears, black tailed deer, bison, fox, porcupine, a baby moose, an eagle who lost a wing, a great horned owl, Seymour the Moose, and more.

The highlight of the day was when Spike asked if anyone happened to bring a banana with their brown bag lunch. Of course Susan had 2. Spike told her that if she held one up to the fence where Seymour the Bull Moose was that he would come up and eat if right out of her hand. Well, not only did she feed the moose, she kissed him right on his big nose. We think he felt a kindred spirit.

Bears down on the farm Click to enlarge	Seymour likes the banana Click to enlarge
What will it take to get another banana? Click to enlarge	How about a little Smooching the Moose? Click to enlarge
Hey - we're busy here! Click to enlarge	OK, We're done Click to enlarge

2006-07-22 (Wed) Day 38 (Anchorage Alaska, day 4 of 4 days)

Today is a free day so John went for a bike ride and Susan went to the local Farmer's Market. After that we went to REI to stock up on items we will need when we hike the 33 mile Chilkoot Trail. Yes, Susan has agreed to the hike but John may be having second thoughts after he sees how much food Susan wants to take along for a 3 day hike. John thinks a few Cliff Bars will do the trick while Susan wants at least a couple of "real" meals so we compromise with some of those meals that cook themselves since we don't want to deal with carrying a camp stove and all that stuff.

Tonight we had a family style dinner at the Dusty Sourdough Show where we won one of Dusty's new Christmas CD's. After dinner we went to visit the Alaska Wild Berry Company. They have the worlds biggest chocolate water fall. Many of us tried to accidentally fall in but they were watching us pretty close.

When we got back to the campground there was a young bull moose out in the field resting. From what we hear he comes around every day and does not seem to mind all the attention he gets. He was too far away to get a picture but he looked good through the binoculars.

2006-07-23 (Sun) Day 38 (Seward, Alaska, day 1 of 2)

You may, or may not, have noticed that sometimes we get the day or date wrong. We try to catch it before we post but, hey, we are on vacation. Who cares what day or date it is.

Today we left for Seward, Alaska. Since it was a short drive we did not really stop anywhere along the way. We drove into Seward on the worst roads we have seen yet. They are doing construction and it has rained in Seward for the last week (at least). There were so many big potholes so close together that we had to drive 1-5 miles per hour. We are not kidding. They were horrible.

But, once we got parked everything got better. Our site faced Resurrection Bay and the first thing we notice are these things that look like furry logs rolling around in the water. Closer examination showed that they were otters. Susan went nuts. She grabbed the binoculars and ran to the shoreline (30 feet away) to get a better look. We knew everything in Alaska was bigger but some of these otters can get hefty, reaching five feet and weighing about 70 pounds.

This afternoon Spike took us on his city tour, all 5 blocks of it. Seward is small but beautiful. It is on the edge of Resurrection Bay and surrounded by mountains, many of which are still snow capped. There are glaciers everywhere you turn and we went to see Exit Glacier up close. This is the closest Susan has gotten to a glacier (Remember John climbed down on Salmon Glacier in Hyder, AK). You could actually walk up and touch it. John hiked parallel to the Exit Glacier up the mountain about 3/4 mile and saw caverns we could park our motorhome in. OK, the "DANGER! Do Not Enter - Falling Ice..." sign was supposed to stop us but "Mom, everyone else did"! It was magnificent.

Our new friends Bob and Hope Dougherty (Susan met them at the rally in Florida) invited us over to dinner for brats and kraut and lots of fun and laughter. The food was great and the friendship better. We knew we had a big day tomorrow so we were off to bed early.

Great People - New Friends - Bob and Hope

Click to enlarge

Exit Glacier Click to enlarge	Exit Glacier - closer Click to enlarge
Exit Glacier - real close Click to enlarge	Exit Glacier Ice - we got yelled at for this one:( Click to enlarge

2006-07-24 (Mon) Day 38 (Seward, Alaska, day 2 of 2)

Today we were supposed to go on an 8 hour Kenai Fjords/Resurrection Bay Tour but there were small craft warnings in the Gulf of Alaska so the tour company decided to only go on the 4 hour cruise. We were a little bit leery because of the weather; raining, lots of fog, and rough seas and thought we would probably not see much wildlife. We knew we would not see mountains or glaciers because of the fog.

Well, we were very pleasantly surprised! Even the on board park ranger was amazed at how many whales we saw. Yes, we said whales. We saw two humpbacks and several killer (orca) whales. The humpbacks breeched right in front of us several times, splashed the ocean with their pectoral fins, and gave a couple of good tail shots. The forest ranger estimated the large male orca's dorsal fin to be between 15 and 18 feet. There were sea lions, sea otters, birds of all kinds including puffins and eagles.

As we mentioned there were small craft warnings and the closer we got to the Gulf of Alaska, the rougher the seas got. Many of the passengers got sick and even more looked sick. I am pretty sure they did not enjoy the trip as much as we.

Vacations are exhausting! We stayed in this evening, relaxed, and watched a couple movies.

About the pictures: Seas were rough, there was fog, no telephoto lens for camera but everything was perfect with binoculars.

Sea Otter Click to enlarge

Sea Lions Click to enlarge

Puffins Click to enlarge

2006-07-25 (Tue) Homer, Alaska, day 1 of 3

Off to Homer Spit RV Park - We left Seward on our own and met up with the group at our lunch stop. Not much to look at on the way. We stopped at a look out just before heading down into Homer and were amazed when we looked down at this big sandbar that jutted out into the Kachemak Bay. That sandbar is The Homer Spit, where our campground is. This area is very crowded so it took a while to get us all parked. After that we headed out on foot to explore the Spit and find where we are supposed to go for our full day of kayaking tomorrow. It was past 8:00 pm when we finished all this so we just headed home for a restful night.

The "Spit" Click to enlarge

Eagle on the "spit" Click to enlarge

2006-07-25 (Wed) Homer, Alaska, day 2 of 3

John Kayaking Click to enlarge	Guide Greta Click to enlarge	Eagle Click to enlarge
Otter with feet up Click to enlarge	Otter with mouth open Click to enlarge	Horned Puffin Click to enlarge

2006-07-25 (Thu) Homer, Alaska, day 3 of 3

Smokey Bay Air - Bear Viewing

We headed to the Homer Airport at 8:30 AM to board our flight, ok little plane, for our full day of bear viewing. We expected a small plane but it was really small. Susan was a bit leery but got on board ready for bear. We flew from Homer across Cook Inlet to Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. The flight was smooth and the views of Iliamna Volcano and St. Augustine Volcano were awesome. Both volcano's are active and Augustine has been blowing smoke for the last month. We could see it clearly during our flight.

When we approached the Alaska Homestead Lodge Susan was wondering where the runway was when John told her that we were going to land on the beach. Our pilot assured us that they do this all the time. In fact, there were 3 other planes already on the beach. We were met by our 2 guides Scott and Amanda. There were 10 of us for the tour so we jumped into our little wagons, being pulled by a four-wheeler ATV, and off we went. Before we even got to the orientation we saw a mother and her 2nd year cub right beside the road. It only got better.

Sometimes words are just not enough to describe what you see so we will let our pictures of the bears do the talking for us.

Landing on the beach was a new experience Click to enlarge	Our first sighting - a Sow and her 2nd year Cub Click to enlarge	Cub lead Mom over stream Click to enlarge
John bear viewing Click to enlarge	Tracking bear - not hard :) Click to enlarge	Holy bear Batman! Click to enlarge
He ain't so big. :) Click to enlarge	Another sow and cub Click to enlarge	It was a great day! Click to enlarge

2006-07-28 (Fri) (Kenai, Alaska, day 1 of 2)

End of tour :(

As we left Homer we stopped at the overlook for one last glance at Kachemak Bay and The Spit. The views of the beginning of Alaska's Aleutian Islands (part of the Ring of Fire) are spectacular today as the clouds have lifted and the sun is shining bright. Our drive is a short today but we have one stop at a fish processing plant where those of us to did not go fishing in Homer can pick up some fresh (frozen) Halibut and Cod. Susan has gotten very fond of Halibut and eats it whenever she can.

Our tour with Spike ends here in Kenai and he has planned a great party for the next two days. Tonight we dine on King Crab Legs (Yea) with Cole slaw and potato salad. Spike made a deal with the local Carr's (Safeway) for us to buy the legs at $9.99 a pound. A good deal because here in Alaska the Crab is still expensive. That is why none of you have gotten any in the mail.

After dinner the Karaoke machine appeared and the real fun began. We sang until the sun went down, which is about 11:00 pm now as we are losing almost 5 minutes of daylight every day.

The small sandbar is The Homer Spit Click to enlarge

The Gang Ready to Eat Crab Legs Click to enlarge

Whe Wanna be Supremes Click to enlarge

2006-07-28 (Sat) (Kenai, Alaska, day 2 of 2)

We slept in a bit this morning to recover from all the excitement last night. The wind has kicked up so our planned bike ride was scratched and we opted for a ride in the car. We headed out to Captain Cook State Park for a little hiking and, hopefully, some wildlife viewing. We pulled out to a little trail that lead down to a creek and boom - there were several young eagles looking for their lunch. We can tell their age because their heads had not turned white yet. That happens when they are about 5 years old.

On the way back to camp we had to make an abrupt stop because a big bull moose crossed the road and began eating the fireweed on the other side. Of course we stopped to take lots of pictures.

The farewell grilled halibut party was fun, filled with song, skits, serious poetry and amusing verse. Somehow knowing this was that last time we would see most of our traveling companions put a damper on the joy that we felt. It was a pleasure spending time with everyone in this caravan. We will truly miss them.

A young Eagle looking for fish Click to enlarge

Right in front of his ears-See the little antlers Click to enlarge

Goodbye from Roger, Spike & Stef Click to enlarge

2006-07-30 (Sun) (Seward, Alaska day 1 of 2.5)

This morning we said our final good bye to the Alaska RV Tour with special hugs for Roger and Stef. We could not find Spike (maybe he was still asleep) so we will email our farewell to him.

Our short drive back to Seward was pretty and we got to see something we had only heard about; a stream lined with people fishing and there, in the middle, two black bears wrestling over the best spot to catch their fish. We tried to find a place to park but there were so many people crowded around that there was not a safe place. What this all means is - The Fish Are IN. Yea. We have been hearing about the combat fishing and the streams so full of fish that you can walk across them on the backs of the fish (not that we would). Now, maybe, we stand a chance of seeing that.

Our arrival back in Seward was great because the sky was clear and we could see the beautiful mountains that surround this busy harbor town. John immediately took advantage of the good weather (it can change in a moment) and headed up Mt. Marathon. This trail goes straight up the side of a mountain and people here actually have a marathon race up and down it. He got almost to the top when the black clouds began to fill the harbor and you could see the rain heading our way. He did manage to get a good picture of where we are parked. We are right in front facing the water. Susan enjoys watching the harbor for the many otters that roll and play there. With the afternoon rain we headed inside for a movie and a good nights sleep.

The road coming into Seward - Nice Huh? Click to enlarge

View from the top of Mt. Marathon Click to enlarge

2006-07-31 (Mon) (Seward, Alaska day 2 of 2.5)

Godwin Glacier Dog Sled Tours

The best long distance runners eat raw meat,
run naked, and sleep in the snow.

View when you are not the lead dog

Click to enlarge

2006-08-01 (Tue Morning) (Seward, Alaska day 2.5 of 2.5)

We awoke to a beautiful sunrise and were excited about our ride. After we helped Hugh clean the yard and feed the dogs their morning meal of super duper dog food mixed with rice and broth we got to help harness the dogs. Let me tell you, they are strong. Susan just about went for a ride without a sled. One of the dogs was so excited he wanted to run with Susan in tow. John came to the rescue and we got all of the dogs ready for a great run. Our team, lead by, June-Marie, had several of the dogs that lead Hugh to his 3rd place finish in the 2005 Yukon Quest.

We took off from camp and headed straight up the glacier valley on our way to the top. We learned that mushing is not all up to the dogs. The musher, and riders, must help when the going gets too tough on the dogs. Standing on the back of the sled, trying not to fall off and making sure the dogs go the right way, while pushing with one foot, is a big challenge, especially for those of us (Susan) who do not have good balance to begin with. Hugh was great and made sure each of us got lots of time to control the sled and when we got back near camp he even got off the sled and let us guide it into camp on our own. Our hour and a half ride came to an end way too soon but just in time as we heard the helicopter coming through the valley as we were putting the dogs back. After lots of hugs and exchanging of email addresses we jumped in the helicopter and headed back to Seward.

When we got back to the coach we pulled out of Seward and headed for Kenny Lake and our next adventure; our 5 day rafting and hiking fly-in on the Nizina River.

Godwin Glacier Taxi Click to enlarge	Breakfast Fuel for the dogs Click to enlarge	Guide Hugh at glacier camp Click to enlarge
Our transport Click to enlarge	View from glacier top Click to enlarge	Sleep accomodations Click to enlarge
We are mushing Click to enlarge	We are still mushing Click to enlarge	We are done mushing Click to enlarge

Rafting and Treking Itineray

2006-08-02 (Wed) (Kenny Lake and Nizina River, Alaska day 1 of 6)

Instead of taking two days to reach Kenny Lake, we decided to drive the entire way to reward us with one full day to prepare for our big adventure. We had planned to drive from Kenny Lake to McCarthy, where we are supposed to meet our guides, so we wanted to check out the McCarthy Road. We have heard and read that the 60 mile road is rough and should only be driven at 30 mph by those who have two spare tires and a lot of patience. We only went in about 5 miles but realized flying would be a much better, and faster, option. The Echo has been traumatized enough during this trip. Susan contacted Wrangell Mountain Air and arranged for us to fly from Chitina to McCarthy Thursday morning so now we have time to relax a bit and take our time packing. We met Sandy, who works at the campground, and will be looking after Mitts and Neon while we are on the river. She is very nice and has many animals of her own so we know she will be great with the girls.

Just one narrow part of the McCarthy Road Click to enlarge

You can't go without me Click to enlarge

2006-08-03 (Thu) (Nizina River, Alaska day 2 of 6)(1st day of rafting trip)

We boarded a small plane in Chitina for the 35 minute ride to McCarthy airstrip, complete with orange traffic cones to mark the runway. The views of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve were breath taking. Our guides, Kate and Kevin, were there in McCarthy to meet us and we began loading the bush planes that will take us and our gear to the put in spot on the Nizina Lake. Our flight took us up the Nizina Valley, getting a bird's eye view of the river we will float in the days to come. We circle over the moraine striped Nizina Glacier before landing at its terminus. Susan will never complain about landing on a beach again. This airstrip was more like a small clearing on a cliff overlooking the lake. It was so small that the planes had to be turned around by hand so they had the room needed to take off. It was an eerie feeling watching the plane take off leaving us in the middle of nowhere with two people we just met. After we carried all the gear to our lakeside campsite we all went for a hike along the gravel bar to the toe of the Nizina Glacier. Along the way we saw moose, wolf and bear cub prints and scat. While Kevin got the rafts ready Kate cooked us a great dinner of Curry Chicken and Rice. After a wilderness safety talk and lessons on how to use the "Groover" (the toilet for solid waste only - liquid went on the ground) we set up our tent and turned in early.

Our bush planes on the "landing strip" Click to enlarge	What bush pilots call a runway Click to enlarge
View of Nizina Glacier from our campsite Click to enlarge	"Groover" (outhouse) took some getting used to Click to enlarge

2006-08-04 (Fri) (Nizina River, Alaska day 3 of 6)(2nd day of rafting trip)

We slept well, very warm and dry. It was raining when we woke up but the skies began to clear after breakfast (Susan ate, John went for a hike) so we loaded the rafts and were eager to make our way to the Nizina River. While Kevin finished working on his raft Kate gave us a raft safety talk then we paddled around the lake to get a closer look at the many icebergs both floating and stationary. We will float its entire sixty miles over the next four days. We stopped for lunch near one of the many waterfalls that pour off the cliffs on the east side of the river. Kate told us that we were 4 of only about 50 people who had every walked up to these falls. It is a great feeling knowing that you are looking a something only a few have seen. We paddled on down the river in search of our next campsite. Kevin spotted a great one with breathtaking views of a multilevel waterfall coming down the Mile-High Cliffs, where the rock has been folded over billions of years to form remarkable patterns. After a great dinner of veggie chili and grilled steak with cornbread and salad, we all turned in early to rest up for our big hike tomorrow.

Kevin and John getting one of the rafts ready Click to enlarge	John, Kevin and Kate with the rafts Click to enlarge
Us on the Nizina Lake - notice the icebergs Click to enlarge	Us by the beautiful waterfall Click to enlarge

2006-08-05 (Sat) (Nizina River, Alaska day 4 of 6)(3rd day of rafting trip)

After breakfast we packed a lunch and donned our day packs for a trek up The Mile-High Cliffs. Last night we decided that we would try to get a close as possible to the waterfall that we have named Temptress since we are all being tempted to make such a difficult hike to get a closer look. We had to bushwhack our way through some very dense alder thicket before we could get to the gravel level that would lead us closer to the waterfall. This hike was incredibly hard for Susan but she did not give up and would not accept help. She did learn how to use sticks to stabilize her when we were going over some difficult gravel that was about a 65 degree angle with a steep grade of 1,000 feet. When we made it up as far as we felt comfortable going the view was amazing. Of course, John went higher while we ate our lunch then we all started our steep decent. The way down was almost as hard as the way up since we were still on loose rocks. Thank goodness for the walking sticks. Susan was using two of them by this time. Once we got to the bottom of the mountain we still had to make our way through denser thicket to get back to camp. We found lots of moose droppings but, thankfully, no moose. When we got back to camp and Susan looked up to where we had climbed the emotions were just too much and she broke down in tears. She never thought she could do it. Neither did John! John is very proud of Susan and her determination not to quit. Any worries about her hiking the Chilkoot Trail have greatly diminished after today's hike. We toasted the day with water from the falls and chocolate!

Our dinner was a special treat. Copper River Salmon caught by our guide Kevin. He baked it over the coals with lots of garlic and onion. Yummy! Kate outdid herself with one of the best desserts we'd ever had. She made this peach, rhubarb dish in a Dutch oven that tasted like it had pudding in it. Words can't describe how yummy it was. She said she would give Susan the recipe so she can make it when we get home.

We hiked up past the dark gravel area Click to enlarge	Our camp kitchen by the waterfall Click to enlarge
John, Kate, and Kevin by the falls Click to enlarge	Us by the falls - It was a long way up for Susan Click to enlarge

2006-08-06 (Sun) (Nizina River, Alaska day 5 of 6) (4th day of rafting trip)

Today we woke up to cold rain and wind. We all agreed that if it was going to rain, better to rain on a day we were on the river. We continued down stream where the Nizina River becomes braided, forming dozens of channels across a mile-wide floodplain as it sweeps around Sourdough Mountain and heads west. Kate and Kevin did a great job negotiating the channels and avoided getting the rafts lodged on any gravel bars. By the time we stopped for lunch the rain had stopped so we went for a nice walk along the rocky banks of the river. For our last camp Kevin chose a nice terrace nestled in the canyon where we spent our last night with the sound of flowing water.

Tonight it was Kevin's night to cook and he made a magnificent Veggie Lasagna in the Dutch oven. Every meal on this trip has been wonderful.

We decided to finish the wine - John finished the Jack Daniels and bocce balls with rivers rocks seemed a natural progression. It was fun!

Kevin rowing down the river Click to enlarge	Kevin and Kate working their magic in the kitchen Click to enlarge
Kevin's delicious lasagna Click to enlarge	Bocce ball with river rocks Click to enlarge

2006-08-07 (Mon) (Nizina River, Alaska day 6 of 6) (5th day of rafting trip)

Although our trip is almost over Kevin told us that this sunny day would have the most exciting whitewater of the trip as well as more great scenery. Susan wanted to experience the fun of hitting the waves so Kevin aimed the raft at just the right angle for us to feel the water on our faces. The water temperature was only about 38 degrees so we were happy to only hit a few of the many waves. The small canyon we camped in opened up as the Kennicott River added its flow to the Nizina. About an hour later the walls closed in again, this time forming tight turns where the water boiled and surged as it was forced around the corners of the limestone cliffs. We made a quick stop to scramble up the cliffs for a look at an old tram seat that the early miners used to cross the river. As we emerged form the canyon the wide Chitina Valley opened before us and here is where our journey came to an end. We got there just in time to deflate the rafts, and take a quick walk on the rocky beach. Our bush plane arrived to take us back to Chitina. We said our good-bys to Kate and Kevin and thanked them for 5 incredible days on the river.

When we got back to Kenny Lake Mitts and Neon were very glad to see us. We could tell by the happy looks on their little faces that they had a great time with Sandy. We unloaded our gear and managed to wash everything and get ready to head to Valdez tomorrow.

Our guide Kevin Click to enlarge

Our guide Kate Click to enlarge

2006-08-08 (Tue) (Valdez, Alaska day 1 of 3)

Before we left Kenny Lake we took a ride to Sandy's house to pay her and give her personal thanks for taking such good care of Mitts and Neon. She lives on a huge farm with cows, pigs, ducks, dogs, and a cat with a few extra toes. She also gardens and made sure our hands were full of rhubarb, lettuce, and all the fixings for a home grown salad.

The drive to Valdez, the northern most ice-free port in Alaska, was short but full of beauty. As we came into Keystone Canyon we stopped for a look at Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls. Notice the snow markers - they are used to show cars where the road is in whiteout conditions. Thompson Pass holds the 24 hour snowfall record - 5 feet. Yes, we said 5 feet in 24 hours.

Bridal Veil Falls Click to enlarge

Road markers for whiteout snow conditions Click to enlarge

2006-08-09 (Wed) (Valdez, Alaska day 2 of 3)

Today is a day of rest for Susan since she managed to catch a little cold during the trip. John went for a 55 mile bike ride. He wanted to go farther but it started to rain. We found out that August is the rainy month in Alaska. We got caught up on housework and laundry and are planning the next part of our trip. We still want to go back to Skagway and hike the Chilkoot trail but we are concerned about the rain.

2006-08-10 (Thu) (Valdez, Alaska day 3 of 3)

Today is another day for getting things done around the house and for the house. Susan has been working on the web site and John is making arrangements to have new furniture installed in the coach (Captain and Co-Captain Chairs, and Sofa, and Recliner) while we are in Elkhart, Indiana. We will be in Elkhart at the end of August having some work done on the coach at the Monaco facility.

2006-08-11 (Fri) (Haines Junction, YT)

We are leaving Valdez, AK today. If weather permits, we will be on the Chilkoot Trail which starts in Dyea, AK (outside Skagway) in 3 days. After our hike and desire to experience this historic trail, Hugh Neff, Iditarod and Yukon Quest musher who was our dog sled guide from Godwin Glaciers, invited us to visit him and his dogs at Laughing Eyes Kennel. After that, we plan on heading home with stops in Jasper AB (Canada), Banff AB, Holland MI, Elkhart IN, Butler PA and anywhere else we might get a wild hair to visit.

2006-08-12 (Sat) (Skagway, AK)

Well it did not take three days to get here. On the way to Skagway we stopped in Whitehorse, Yukon for supplies and the Laughing Eyes Kennel at Annie Lake. We told Hugh we would drop off the pictures we took from the Godwin Glacier dog sled tour. Hugh Neff (guide from Godwin Glacier) and Tamra, his girlfriend, run the Laughing Eyes Kennel. The kennel is on Annie Lake nestled at the base of some mountains 19 km off the South Klondike Highway. This is an absolutely beautiful location but what remote like style. We would image that a musher would have to enjoy solitude.

When we got to Skagway, John talked with Nation Park Service. Trails are muddy, snow is slushy on Chilkoot Pass, and weather forecast is rain with highs near 50 degrees. This is not exactly what we hoped for. Susan turned her ankle while hiking around the Nizina River and it is not quite 100 percent. She opted not to go. John still might try a day hike to the Canadian border and back (33 miles) so he can experience the "Golden Stairs". (When the snow was still on the slope in the winter of 1897-1898, stairs were carved, and a rope was established beside them. This was the location of the famous photographs of the line of men against the mountain.) We will see how he feels when he wakes tomorrow and the weather slams him! -- stay tuned.

John and Tamra in the kennel Click to enlarge

Laughing Eyes Kennel Sign Click to enlarge Laughing Eyes Kennel

Susan found the puppies! Click to enlarge

Chilkoot Trail

2006-08-13 (Sun) (Skagway, AK)

John says he is getting old because he only made it to Sheep Camp at mile 11.78 (a 23.56 round trip trek). Even on a nice day it would have been tough to make it to the Canadian border and back.

John got to the Chilkoot trailhead at 6:45 AM. He carried a 58 pound backpack and was bundled up because it was 39 degrees, windy and raining. After the 30 minutes ascending and descending "Sanity Hill", sloshing in the mud and slipping on roots and rocks, John was sweating profusely so he stripped a couple layers of clothed off. The walk was easy but surprising slow to Canyon City. A one mile diversion to Canyon City across a suspension walk bridge would have been skipped if he knew what was ahead. John can verify this statement as an accurate quote from www.explorethenorth.com, "Steep climb up above the canyon to follow the telephone line. The trail used in the winter of 1897-1898 went through the canyon, but that is impossible in the summer (it was not easy in the winter either)"-- the footing was precarious to say the least, especially in the rain. Because of the weather and low cloud cover, the views were non-existence. When John got to the 83 foot suspension bridge, it was swaying in the wind so he grabbed the suspension wires and proceeded across ... interesting ...

He got to Sheep Camp about 11:30 AM. John realized that he would not get off the Chilkoot until late in the evening, if at all, if he proceeded further. So after changing into a dry set of clothes, a lunch of a couple cliff bars, he headed back. The rained stopped for a couple of hours to Sheep Camp and on the way back, which was nice, but everything was still sloppy. Even with the slow going, fatigue and leg cramps, John made it back to the trailhead around 5:15 PM. It was a good decision to turn around when he did because he would not have made it off the Chilkoot that evening.

Susan spent the day in town roaming around, shopping and looking for two very special tee shirts for John. One shows that he biked to the White Pass Summit, all 15 miles to the 3,292 foot summit. The second is for hiking the Chilkoot trail. Both well deserved!

2006-08-14(Mon) (Watson Lake, YT)

This morning we said good-bye to Alaska. It was sad and it was happy. We are sad because we are leaving such a beautiful state and happy because we are officially "on our way home". We know it will be hard to get back into life after being on such a long and wonderful vacation.

We passed through Whitehorse again so Susan could stop at the Yukon Brewery. We found out that Hugh Neff, the musher from the Godwin Glacier, is on the box of Lead Dog Ale. The picture is from his 3rd place show during the 2005 Yukon Quest. The dogs leading the sled are many of the same dogs we used on the glacier. The lead dog, June-Marie is one of his champions.

We had a little problem getting to the brewery when we passed it and tried to turn around in an abandoned gas station lot. There was a sharp drop from the lot to the roadway and when the coach tilted sideways some of the dishes and glasses came out of their cabinet and crashed to the floor. This was especially bad since just yesterday our Oreck vacuum stopped working. Fortunately we were also planning a stop at the local Wal Mart so we were able to pick up a new vacuum.

Not much happened on the rest of our journey today. John and Susan each spotted black bears along the road and Susan spotted one in a roadside lake. John saw a wolf standing on the side of the road close to Annie Lake Road. If you look at our log from 2006-07-07 in Whitehorse, we saw a wolf on that date too. Tamra (Laughing Eyes Kennel) had mentioned yesterday that she has lots of wolves around the area. I guess she was right. When we got to the campground in Watson Lake we found ourselves parked beside this very weird looking red RV. It has seats in the front and the back has been converted to sleeping quarters. Part of the rear slides out and it looks like it may be a dressing area. (This is Susan's guess) The bus holds about 20 German travelers and we have been seeing it throughout Alaska and the Yukon Territory. Susan thought you would like to see it also.

German Bus Sleep Quarters Click to enlarge

Interesting - What this used for? Click to enlarge

2006-08-15(Tues) (Fort Nelson, BC)

Today we left Watson Lake, YT heading down the Alaska Highway toward its beginning (or ending in our case) in Dawson Creek, BC. What a difference a day makes. Today's wildlife sightings were:

1 Buffalo walking down the side of the road, right beside the coach
1 Bald Eagle sitting in a tree
3 deer in various places
1 Ptarmigan (Alaska state bird) sitting in the middle of the road
7 (yes 7) Caribou - 2 young ones - 1 very young
We saw lots and lots of bear scat but sadly, no bear.

We heard about Liard Hot Springs from several people we met in our travels so we decided we had to see it for ourselves. In addition, John was looking forward to a hot soak after his hike on the Chilkoot Trail. It was what everyone said, beautiful. There were two big ponds surrounded by lush boreal forest. John had a good long soak and Susan roamed around taking pictures of pretty flowers to identify later with her flower book. The Germans in the strange RV were also at the Hot Springs : we ran into two of them, Erika and Guenter, on the boardwalk while we were taking a picture of a little squirrel - we promised to email them a copy.

When we left Liard Hot Springs we passed this woman walking along the side of the road with what looked like one of those carriers you see people puling behind a bicycle. Lord only knows where she was walking to or from. The Alaska Highway is a 1,377 miles and the road that winds through many mountains. We passed beautiful lakes and rivers; many were the most incredible turquoise color. As we entered Muncho Lake Provincial Park, we realized we were actually at the beginning of the Rocky Mountains. From there we drove through Summit Pass, the highest point, at 4,250, on the Alaska Highway. We chose Fort Nelson as our resting place for this evening. It is just about half way between Watson Lake and Dawson Creek.

Yes, a buffalo Click to enlarge	Uncle Caribou Click to enlarge	More Caribou Click to enlarge
Cute huh? Click to enlarge	Liard Hot Spring Beta Pool Click to enlarge	John enjoying Beta Pool Click to enlarge
John enjoying Alpha Pool Click to enlarge	John under Alpha Pool Falls Click to enlarge	Muncho Lake, BC Click to enlarge

2006-08-16(Wed) (Grande Cache, AB)

We relaxed a bit this morning and did not leave Fort Nelson until 9:30. As usual in these parts there is lots of road construction. They lay down oil then put a mixture of sand and gravel on top of it so it is very dusty. Our poor Echo!

We are taking the most direct route to Banff so that means driving on a road that has no services. As we traveled on we noticed that there were lots of little roads on either side but no big signs to tell us what they are. After closer examination we realized that the entire valley is used for logging, natural gas and oil drilling. The good part of this is that British Columbia seems to do it right. Once we got further along on the road we saw lots of signs showing how they have huge reforestation projects to bring the areas that they have logged back. The only real scar we saw was an enormous coal mine. Not your average size coal mine - this thing was really enormous.

The actual drive was beautiful. The skies here are always full of big puffy clouds (Nicole you would never leave) as far as you can see in all directions. The last petals are beginning to fall from the Fireweed signaling the end of summer and the night are also getting colder! The sun is setting earlier and earlier every day. Granted, we are driving further south each day but we are losing sunlight faster than we are driving. Each day loses over 5 minutes of daylight. At least Susan is sleeping better now that it actually getting dark.

We stopped for lunch in the little town of Wonowon pronounced, "one-O-one". We ordered their lunch specials which were baked spaghetti and the Halls Mozza Burger. The burger was out of this world. We had been hearing how good Canadian Beef is and the rumors are correct. The burger was juicy and very tasty. As we looked around the small cafe we noticed that most of the patrons were men dressed in camouflage. Our waitress filled us in that today was the first day of Moose hunting season. No wonder we had not seen any along the road - they are all hiding.

Some interesting things along the way: At Clark Sawmill there is a 30 foot lumberjack who is known to wear a Santa suit during Christmas. In Beaverlodge, BC there is an enormous Beaver. Of course Susan had to have her picture taken with him.

At about 4:00 we came to the end of the Alaska Highway. Yea! We made it. All 1,377 miles of it and the last 100 miles were difficult because there was so much construction and not much to see. Our wildlife count today was small, only one little fox, a young hawk, and about 10 deer. We did see a large herd of Elk but they were not wild. Up here they farm them for their meat. It is supposed to be good but we have not tried it.

We wanted to call it a night in Grande Prairie, BC but the campground we picked did not have any vacancies so we continued on to Grande Cache. We are glad we did as the area is beautiful. The municipal campground, which was way back in the wood, was full but the manager said we could park off the side of the road just outside the gate. We enjoyed one of the most beautiful sunsets we have ever seen and dropped off to sleep under bright star filled skies. We did get up in the middle of the night to look for the Northern Lights but did not see them. Maybe another night.

Now that's a Beaver! Click to enlarge

The view from our side window Click to enlarge

2006-08-17(Thu) (Fort MacLeod, AB)

Before our departure this morning John went for a nice bike ride and spotted a 10 point buck. It is a great day for driving, clear blue skies, no wind, and not much traffic.

The no traffic part soon ended as we entered Jasper National Park. The last time we were in this area was October 1994 during our honeymoon. What a difference a decade makes. We are sure it makes a difference that we were here in October not August when the schools are still out and hordes of people are getting in their last chance for a vacation before winter sets in. We had intentions of taking a few small hikes in both Jasper and Banff National Parks but it was not to be as we could not find a parking place in any of the trail areas. Not only is the RV too big for some of them but the ones we could have fit in were filled to capacity. The scenery is still spectacular with the jagged tops of the Rocky Mountains popping up around every corner. Both parks also have some very impressive glaciers.

After one short stop Susan forgot that she had started the Echo, to keep the battery charged, and we needed to stop and turn it off. Right when we got back on the road a good sized black bear crossed the road right in front of us. We did see lots of Mountain Goats and one Elk. We left Banff around 5:00 and noticed that we had hit the 43,000 mile mark on the odometer of the RV. Yea

After passing through Calgary we decided to call it a night and found a little campground in Fort MacLeod, AB called Daisy Mae Campground and RV Resort. The campground was very small but John managed to get us into a tiny pull through. Obviously they used the term resort loosely.

Mountain Goats snacking on the side of the road. Click to enlarge

One of the many Banff glaciers Click to enlarge

2006-08-17(Thu) (Fort MacLeod, AB)

Before our departure this morning John went for a nice bike ride and spotted a 10 point buck. It is a great day for driving, clear blue skies, no wind, and not much traffic.

The no traffic part soon ended as we entered Jasper National Park. The last time we were in this area was October 1994 during our honeymoon. What a difference a decade makes. We are sure it makes a difference that we were here in October not August when the schools are still out and hordes of people are getting in their last chance for a vacation before winter sets in. We had intentions of taking a few small hikes in both Jasper and Banff National Parks but it was not to be as we could not find a parking place in any of the trail areas. Not only is the RV too big for some of them but the ones we could have fit in were filled to capacity. The scenery is still spectacular with the jagged tops of the Rocky Mountains popping up around every corner. Both parks also have some very impressive glaciers.

After one short stop Susan forgot that she had started the Echo, to keep the battery charged, and we needed to stop and turn it off. Right when we got back on the road a good sized black bear crossed the road right in front of us. We did see lots of Mountain Goats and one Elk. We left Banff around 5:00 and noticed that we had hit the 43,000 mile mark on the odometer of the RV. Yea

After passing through Calgary we decided to call it a night and found a little campground in Fort MacLeod, AB called Daisy Mae Campground and RV Resort. The campground was very small but John managed to get us into a tiny pull through. Obviously they used the term resort loosely.

2006-08-18(Fri) (Havre, MT USA - lower 48 and heading home)

We took off from Fort MacLeod planning on a short day of driving for both us and the girls. We crossed into the US in Montana and wanted to stay off the interstates for a while longer so we opted for route 2 through Montana. It is a nice small road that goes through mostly farm land. Not much to see along the way.

We called it a day around 1:00 and stopped at a great campground in Havre, MT. The place is called The Havre RV Park, Emporium Food & Fuel Store. It is affiliated with The Duck Inn Restaurants and Casinos & the Best Western Great Northern Inn. They have it all! We even get two for one drinks at any of the restaurants or casinos. Yeah, like we will use those.

John went for a nice bike ride and came back with stories of snakes, bugs, and more snakes. (Sandy P. you would not like it here) He said that 3 of them were dead on the road but the one that was alive was a rattler. Thank goodness for his quick wits. He managed to avoid running over it and made it home in one piece.

Tonight is the 200th show of Stargate, and we finally have our satellite back so we are planning a relaxed evening watching TV.